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Community Calendar and Travel Information

Gay in San Juan, Puerto Rico and the Caribbean

Carlos T. Mock, MD and William R. Rattan

Last Update February 5, 2007

Airports | Climate | Currency | Dining | Getting Around | Holidays | Language | Lodging |Passports & Visa | References | Scene | Shopping | Things to See | Time Zones | Tipping

International Herald Tribune Editorial - Puerto Rico in distress
Copyright by The International Herald Tribune
Published: October 23, 2006

After decades of economic progress, Puerto Rico is struggling, and the mainland has both missed this horrific economic slide and contributed to it through benign neglect.

Poverty on the island is rampant. The per capita income is just about half that of the poorest state in the United States. Nearly one-third of the population was unemployed in 2000. And a good quarter of all employment is in government jobs. If the goal is more than survival, the bloated public payroll will need to be significantly pared back.

The bleak picture is set out in a long-overdue, exhaustive study - "The Economy of Puerto Rico: Restoring Growth" - from the Center for the New Economy, a nonpartisan Puerto Rican research group, and the Brookings Institution.

Much of the blame can be put on Washington, which has been tone deaf to the island's needs and has miscalculated where help was needed. Even a good idea, like the Section 936 program of tax incentives, was mismanaged. Before it was phased out last year, it had succeeded in bringing many pharmaceutical concerns to the island, but produced relatively few jobs and at so high a cost that a $40,000 position cost the government $70,000.

The study is spurring a debate over welfare and other social programs. Some of the economists' prescriptions are harsh, including curtailment of food stamps. But part of the mission seems to be shock therapy. That may work and might even help to get policy makers on the search for solutions.

The key to the island's future will be charting a direction that includes capitalizing on the island's open economy to create jobs for home- grown talent

We were taken aback in our recent visit. Poverty seems to be on the rise (as judging by the number of beggars) and everyone we talked to thought the economy was deteriorating fast; much faster than in the United States.  

The Good News:

The Caribbean is warm all the time, day and night– and life's pace there is refreshingly slow. Gay travelers seeking these luxuries will find interesting possibilities in San Juan, Puerto Rico, a surprisingly easy destination for North American and European holiday makers.

The weather in sultry San Juan is fabulous. There's lots of gay life, too, from the relative quiet of Ocean Park, San Juan's upscale beach community, to the bustling Condado, famous for its casinos and nightlife, to Old San Juan, where the ancient forts and cobblestone streets hark back to an earlier time. Main attractions here include several fine restaurants, a sauna, a busy harbor catering to the cruise ship trade, and of course the reminders of old Spain in the New World.

The Caribbean sun is strong! - be careful when you are in the sun, particularly during late morning & the early afternoon hours. Each year, two and a half million tourists visit the Puerto Rico or The Virgin Islands wanting to go home with a suntan. However, many get burnt on their first day due to the cooling effects of the trade winds, not realizing how much sun they are really getting. It is very important to limit your sunbathing at first (10 min) to see how your skin takes to our sun, and only gradually increase the length of exposure to the sun's rays. Even those with dark complexions should be cautious, sunburns can be painful. A good rule of thumb is to stay out of the sun from 11am to 2pm to avoid the highest concentration of UV rays. As a precaution keep yourself and your children especially well protected with a high factor of sun screen or clothing, paying particular attention to the top of the head (wear a hat), the nose, the backs of the knees, ears and the tops of the feet. When snorkeling, always wear some sort of protective T-shirt to protect your shoulders & back.

The view of San Juan from the Castillo San Cristobal.
Ponce de Leon statue in front of Plaza San Jose.
The Capitol of Puerto Rico.

Airport

Luis Munoz Marin International Airport (SJU). No public Transportation available. Hotels provide transfers if you are in either Fajardo, Ponce or Dorado. Otherwise, a cheap cab drive will take you to your hotel.

San Juan is a major American Airlines hub. Most of the American's flights to the Caribbean connect in San Juan with four flights from Chicago daily. United Airlines and ATA have direct flights from Chicago. Jet Blue is a cheap alternative from JFK.

Travelers have access to the duty-free shops at the airport, even though Puerto Rico is part of the United States. Alcohol and cigarettes are the best bargains - a carton of cigarettes sells for $19.95. THere are some good bargains on jewelry also.

Time Zone

Puerto Rico is on Atlantic Time. One hour ahead of New York and 2 hours ahead of Chicago. They do not observe Day Light Savings so, in the summer they match our Eastern Time zone (one hour ahead of Chicago). Check the "Time Ticker" for current time in San Juan.

Weather

Current Weather in San Juan

Typical forecast all year round is: High in the 80's with showers in the afternoon. The big question is where it's going to rain. Expect temperatures in the high 70's at night and high 80's in the day. Hurricane season is generally from May through November 1st. PR high season runs from the end of November to the end of March. Hotel and airfares double. The best time to visit is early November or late March where you avoid high prices and still get to escape the cold weather.

Getting around

Puerto Rico is 100 x 30 miles so nothing is far, but the only good form of public transportation is taxi, which can be scarce. If you are just going to park yourself on the beach, use the taxis (AA American Taxi 787-982-3446 or 787-982-3466); otherwise you'll need to rent a car. Be careful from whom you rent. THRIFTY RENT-A-CAR closes their office at 9pm. My flight from Chicago was two hours late last october 2004 and without even an apology (after two months and two complaints) I was abandoned at the airport to fetch for myself. All the major US Car Rental companies operate out of the Luis Munoz Marin Airport. In the bad weather months stick to a major car company, or at least make sure that you have plenty of leeway before the rental car office closes.

Word of caution about car rental companies

Most of them carry absolutely no insurance for their cars while you rent them, thus making your personal car insurance the primary insurer. If you use your credit card to cover your insurance deductible, all credit cards except for Diners Club will be secondary insurers. Yes, we were surprised to learn that even American Express Platinum has gone the secondary route. That means that the accident, whether or not it was your fault will get into your car insurance report. We find Hertz car company the worse offender because they charge for loss of use and add administrative costs to the handling of the accident. (not covered by any insurance we know of). On the cards side, we find Aadvantage Master card Platinum the worst offender. Takes forever to pay and will harass you with millions of forms just to see if you give up on them and pay the deductible. Beware of parking your car at Plaza las Americas Shopping Center. Our car was hit there while we were shopping, thus the claim and problem

Our recommendation:

"Tren Urbano" - The much anticipated Tren Urbano is operational. You can ride on weekends from 10am to 6pm at no cost. There is just limited access, from Sagrado Corazon in Santurce to Bayamon and only one line (Map). They called themselves "La Alternativa de Transporte Integrado" and is not of great use to tourists. Rates are $1.50/ride with with $5 cards for a full day of travel and $15/week. The San Juan metropolitan area's new commuter rail system,primarily above ground, connects downtown neighborhood, Bayamon with Eastern Santurce, near Sagrado Corazon University by the way of the Torrimar, Centro Medico (their Medical Center), the University of Puerto Rico, Rio Piedras campus, and the financial district of Hato Rey. There are 16 modern stations, with statutes and other art work. The shiny new cars are air-conditioned. They run on a daily basis (about every 12 minutes) from 5:30 am to 11:30 pm; the $1.50 charge includes a connection to a metro bus (or "guagua", as they called them). With a special permit, bicycles are permitted. For more information contact "Tren Urbano" at 866-900-1284.

Getting directions in Puerto Rico is something no one should miss. There are very few streets that run parallel or in a grid remotely related to a compass. So, directions tend to be filled with landmarks. Don't be surprised if you're told to go to the second Burger King and turn left! For a quick guide of what's going on pick up your free copy of Qué Pasa! from any hotel in the Island. It has great walking tours and useful information.

Along Ashford Avenue in the Condado area, you can take a 15-minute taxi ride or take bus B21 to Old San Juan, approximately a 30-minute ride, only 25 cents per adult. The A5 takes you to OSJ from Isla Verde. Both come frequently. From OSJ, the B21 returns along Magdalena, then turns onto de Diego Avenue to the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.

Another great option to see the Caribbean in style and comfort (depending on your definition) is to rent a sail boat and float around to the various beaches and marinas in the many nearby islands. You, of course, will have to show proof of ability to sail the boat before renting it. Or you can have the boat and someone to sail it for you!

Then there are tour guides that can show you around. We recommend Ivette Jimenez whose claim to fame is she gives "Puerto Rico's best Taxi and Sightseeing tours." We loved her and she is reasonable. Just call her at 787-505-3468 or 787-268-5156. Book her from the mainland. She is a busy woman. She'll pick you up at the airport and take you to your hotel for about $5 - $10 less than the taxis at the airport. Tell her what you want to see and she'll take care of he rest.

Telephones

There are two area codes in the Island: 787 and 939. You need to dial 1-area code-number for any number outside of San Juan; you'll need to dial the 10 digit number for any number in San Juan.

Immigration Requirements

Puerto Rico is a Commonwealth of the US. Visiting the island feels like you're in another country but without most of the hassles.

Passport countdown

Safety

For the most part, common sense is all you need to be safe in Puerto Rico. When walking at night , try to stay in well lit, populated areas. This especially applies to San Juan which has the second highest rate of crime/per capita than any other US city except Washington DC. Don't leave belongings unattended on beaches, and keep valuables out of sight when leaving them in a car.

Internet

Language

Both Spanish and English are official languages on the island. Quite a few people you will come into contact with speak fluent English; however, there are those at the other end of the spectrum who speak very little. The majority land somewhere in the middle; speaking great Spanish and definitely passable English. If you're not used to the accent, though, sometimes you'll swear that you're hearing Spanish when you're not.

Currency

Puerto Rico uses the US Dollar.

Taxes - VAT

The commonwealth started a 6.5% VAT on most services and goods as of November 15, 2006. There is an 11% government tax on room charges in hotel with casinos, 9% tax on hotels without casinos, and 7% on Country Inns or the government owned Paraderos (see below).

Holidays

Tipping

The island has adopted a "servis compris" attitude to the restaurant industry. Most restaurants will automatically add a 15% tip. We like the idea, since we usually tip much higher than 15%. It saved us some money. Make sure you ask if the tip is included, otherwise you'll end up tipping twice.

Lodging

Ocean Park (Locals and some tourists)

Dining

Scene

Condado

Organizations & Publications

Shopping

Things to see

Plaza Colon, Old San Juan. Garita in San Cristobal castle. Garita del diablo, San Cristobal castle.
A view inside San Cristobal. A view of El Morro from San Cristobal. Garita del diablo.
La rogativa, Old San Juan. A street in Old San Juan. The cathedral in Old San Juan.

Day Trips

British Virgin Islands

In all my travels through the Caribbean, I have always favored the least developed Islands. For a romantic getaway with your "special" other, there is nothing like a secluded private beach resort.

Timing

In travel, timing is everything. We have learned to travel "off season" because that's when everything is reasonable. In the Caribbean, off season means April to November. I would strongly suggest you plan your vacation to anywhere in the Caribbean during those times. Everything is literally "half priced" and they bent over backwards to accommodate you (often with free upgrades) because business is so slow.

Weather

Typical forecast all year round is: High in the 80's with showers in the afternoon. The big question is where it's going to rain. Expect temperatures in the high 70's at night and high 80's in the day. Hurricane season is generally from May through November 1st. BVI's high season runs from the end of November to the end of March. Hotel and airfares double. The best time to visit is early November or late March where you avoid high prices and still get to escape the cold weather. Compared to the steamy Midwest summers, the Caribbean has a cool breeze coming from the Ocean ("ocean cooling effect) that will keep you cool at night. I would still recommend Air Conditioning anywhere you make a reservation.

Airport

Tortola, the main island of the British Virgin Islands, is the location of the BVI's only major airport, the Beef Island Airport (EIS). Connections are usually made from San Juan. Once you arrive for your vacation in paradise, it is very easy to get around. With a multitude of taxis, car rental agencies, inter-island ferries, water taxis and charter airplanes, there will not be a problem. Take a look at a couple of options at the British Virgin Islands website, you can even make a reservation before you arrive. DEPARTURE TAX: A departure tax is levied at the rate of $10.00 per person leaving by air, $5.00 leaving by sea and $7.00 for cruise ship passengers.

Immigration Requirements

Visitors are welcome for a period of up to 6 months provided they possess return (or ongoing) tickets, evidence of adequate means of support and prearranged accommodations during their stay.

All visitors with the exception of US and Canadian Citizens are required to carry a valid passport. However, a valid passport is the ideal travel document for all travelers when visiting foreign countries. Visitors from certain countries may also require visas. To confirm whether or not a visa is required, visitors should contact the Chief Immigration Officer, Government of the British Virgin Islands, the nearest British Consulate or the nearest BVI Tourist Board Office.

The BVI immigration service is very particular. For fear of getting immigrants from the other Islands, you must have proof of a return ticket out of the country. If you do not, you need a special dispensation from Chief Immigration Officer. It also helps to show them your hotel reservations. If you choose to do a cruise, or charter a boat, you will need proof of your reservation before being allowed into the country. (They are not very pleasant about it as we found out the hard way)

Chief Immigration Officer Immigration Department Government of the BVI; Road Town, Tortola; British Virgin Islands. Tel: (284) 494-3701 Fax: (284) 494-4399

Pets

Pets will not be admitted without prior clearance. For regulations on pets entering the Territory, write well in advance to the Chief Agricultural Officer, Road Town, Tortola, B.V.I., tel: (284) 495-2451 or call the Humane Society of the B.V.I, tel: (284) 494-2284.

Language

English is spoken everywhere.

Tipping

Baggage handlers are normally tipped up to $US1 .00 per bag depending on the weight and size of the item. All restaurants expect a standard tip of 15% and some will even expect as much as 20%, many add this automatically onto your bill, though an additional tip for good service is not out of the question! Taxis also expect a tip, especially if you expect the driver to help with your luggage. Tipping is appreciated on tours, normally at the end of the tour

Currency

BVI uses the US Dollar. Most establishments honor major credit cards and travelers checks, some offer automatic teller machines compatible with stateside bank cards. When using travelers checks be sure to follow the guidelines from the issuing bank. Major banks with automatic teller machines can be found in the Virgin Islands, they include; Chase, Citibank, Scotia bank & Banco Popular.

Clothing

Dress is casual, but not too casual! While on the street, it is actually illegal to go shirtless or to wear a swimsuit only. Such attire is not welcome in island stores, swim wear should be confined to the beach or pools. Bikini tops are also a no-no when shopping downtown, and shirts must be worn in all other public buildings and banks. Otherwise the dress code in the Virgin Islands requires only casual lightweight clothing. Nights and evenings can sometimes be cool, a sweater or light jacket could be needed. Some upscale restaurants and casinos may require men to wear a jacket (but no tie), in such places you'll probably want to cover up even more to be comfortable in the air-conditioning. Topless sunbathing is not acceptable in most resort areas, although there are some secluded beaches which do allow it.

Crime & Safety

Unfortunately there is crime in paradise. It is never a bad idea to help discourage crime by being smart. Follow the same rules you would in any big city. When walking, stay on well lit streets at night. In the some towns, such as Charlotte Amalie, a taxi at night is recommended for long distances. When going by car, leave valuables in the safe deposit box at your hotel or onboard your ship. Don't leave any valuables unattended on the beach. Don't flash large amounts of bills in public. On some of the smaller islands crime is almost nonexistent.

Dining

Throughout the islands there are many choices of foods. However one variety you will undoubtedly see often are the West Indian foods, found on all the islands. Local favorites you may not have heard of before are saltfish (fish that has been salted for preservation and boiled to rehydrate), pates (fried breads with meat fillings), fungi (a corn dumpling), dumpling (thick flour dumpling), lobster (Caribbean), stewed mutton (soup), conch (an island delicacy often added to fritters), plantains (like a banana but not sweet), Johnny cake (fried unleavened bread), and green sweet potatoes (taste similar to the orange sweet potatoes but not as heavy). As well as some unusual island fruits, and many well known ones. Also very popular are the East Indian influenced curried Roti (an Indian tortilla-like wrapper with curried a meal of chicken, conch or tofu and often vegetables & potato).

Recommendations

Time Zone

Time: Virgin Islanders live by Atlantic Standard Time. One hour ahead of New York and 2 hours ahead of Chicago. They do not observe Day Light Savings so, in the summer they match our Eastern Time zone (one hour ahead of Chicago). Check the "Time Ticker" for current time in the BVI's.

Lodging

Since there is no gay night life in the Islands, be wary of where you choose to stay. If you are traveling alone, do not expect you'll meet the "man of your dreams". After all you're on vacation! The pace of life is slower in the islands, learn to take your time and don't worry, be happy.

Recommendations

References

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