We had such a good time taking pictures that there are way too many to include on this page. If you'd like to see more than what is here... See this bunch. It may take a little longer to open - it's a bunch of pictures after all.

The authors wish to express their gratitude to the webmaster of Gay Guide to Lima, Peru for permission to include extracts from that website which has comprehensive and up-to-date information for gay and lesbian travelers to Lima, Peru.

Most travelers to Peru only spend a day or two in Lima before leaving to discover the rest of this spectacular country. Lima apparently has a relatively small gay community for a city of nearly 9 million people and many gays are well and truly in the closet. The gay scene is much smaller than Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Santiago, or Bogotá. Although Lima has become a little more liberal in the last few years bear in mind that Peru generally still has a macho and conservative culture. The gay rights movement in Peru is in its infancy and an attempt is being initiated to change the constitution. In the meantime homosexuality continues to be viewed negatively so adjust your behavior accordingly and keep a low profile in public. Acceptance will only be achieved slowly and by not provoking reactionary elements.

Time Zone and Time Difference

Time GMT - 5. Five hours less than Greenwich Mean Time. Lima is on Chicago time, one hour behind New York. No DST is observed, therefore in the winter when we reverse to standard time, Lima is one hour ahead of Chicago and the same time as NYC. Check the "Time Ticker" for current time in Lima.

Electricity 220 volts AC, 60 Hz.

Jet Lag

Because there is no time difference, jet lag is almost nonexistent. Make sure you get an overnight flight and ask your doctor to prescribe you a short acting sleeping pill (e. g. Halcyon or Ambien). It is the only way I can sleep in a plane.

Airports

The main international airport in Peru is the Jorge Chávez in Lima (Callao), (airport code is LIM)18 minutes by Cab from City center and about 30 minutes from Miraflores. For international flights you have to be at the airport 3 hours before the departure and 2 hours in domestic flights. Some flights usually have a delay, especially in the afternoon. If you are going to travel inside Peru in high season, buy your tickets in advance and make your reservations as well. For all flights confirm your reservation twice if possible.

At the airport, the traveler must pay a departure tax; international flight US$25, domestic flight S/.12; payable only by non-transit travelers. IGV tax is added to domestic flights.

Passport and Visa

A valid U.S. passport is required to enter and depart Peru. Tourists must also provide evidence of return or onward travel. U.S. citizens do not need a visa for a tourist stay of 90 days or less. U.S. citizens remaining in Peru more than 90 days must pay a monthly fee to extend their visa for up to three additional months, for a total of six months. U.S. citizens, including children, who remain in Peru over six months without obtaining a residence visa will have to pay a fine in order to depart Peru. Visitors for other than tourist or family visit purposes must obtain a Peruvian visa in advance. Business visitors should ascertain the tax and exit regulations that apply to the specific visa they are granted. U.S. citizens whose passports are lost or stolen in Peru must obtain a new passport and present it, together with a police report of the loss or theft, to the main immigration office in the capital city of Lima to obtain permission to depart. An airport tax of $25 per person must be paid in U.S. currency when departing Peru. There is also a small airport fee for domestic flights.

For further information regarding entry requirements, travelers should contact the Peruvian Embassy at 1625 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W., Suite 605, Washington, D.C. 20036; telephone (202) 462-1084 or 462-1085; or the Peruvian Consulate in Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, Patterson (NJ), San Francisco, or San Juan. On inbound international flights you will be given two forms to complete. One is for immigration; after the officer at the immigration desk has stamped this form do not lose it - you will be asked for it on when you exit Peru. Lose it and you will be fined. Customs. Give the form to the customs officer after you collect your bags from the carousel. You may be asked to press a button; if the green light comes on you are clear to proceed; if the red light comes on get your baggage keys out. Tough Luck!

Currency

The new currency since 1991 is the NUEVO SOL that replaced the devaluated and former "Inti". The sign used for Soles is S/. and the least unit is a 5 cents (cinco centimos) coin, although a Sol is composed of a hundred cents. Also there are coins of 10, 20 and 50 cents and 1, 2 and 5 Soles. Notes are of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 Soles. At printing you could get 3.4 soles per USD.

Exchanging money The US dollar is the most popular currency after the Soles. Exchange can be made at banks, casas de cambio (exchange offices) or with street-changers. All have similar rates, but commonly you will find the best rates in the street, near the banks or in commercial areas. When dealing with street-changers, be aware of changer's identification, calculator and the quality of notes. Other currencies could be exchanged but only in major cities banks. Try to have notes in good conditions; torn, patched or old ones can be rejected by people, shops or banks.

Plastic money and Travelers checks Credit cards are widely accepted in the majority of cities, especially Visa. Others are Diners Club, American Express and Access/Master Card. They are commonly charged an 8% commission. Cash can be withdrawn only with local currency and without commission. Traveler's checks are changed by banks and casas de cambio and a small rate is added (depending which bank). Outside the main cities it could take a long time. There is an office of American Express in Lima.

* There is a wide availability of ATM machines in Peru. Best way to get soles.

Climate and Weather

Compared to other South American capital cities, Lima has a stable and humid weather. In summer (Dec-Mar), sun is strong, clear sky and an average temperature of 26°C. The rest of the year, the sky becomes gray, drizzle but never rain and a winter of 12°C in average (Jun-Sep). From September, the weather gets warmer and mild. In summer, limeños escape to the southern beaches (20 to 50km). In autumn and winter, people go in search of sun to the countryside of Chosica, Canta and Cieneguilla (in the valleys of rivers Rímac, Chillón and Lurín respectively), 30 to 60 km east of Lima, near the Andes slopes.

Holidays

January 1st	New Year's Day
Holy Week	Variable
May 1st	Labor Day
June 29th	St. Peter and St. Paul Day
July 28th and 29th	Independence Day
August 30th	Santa Rosa de Lima
October 8th	Battle of Angamos
October 31 and November 1st	All Saints' Day
December 8th	Immaculate Conception
December 25th	Christmas

Language

Spanish and Quechua (Inca's language) are the two official languages in Peru. Although Spanish is the main one, Quechua is widely spoken in the Andes as well as Aymara in the southern Andes in the area of Lake Titicaca. In the Amazon there are more than 70 natives languages, belonging each one to an ethnic group. Some of the Andean people are bilingual (Quechua or Aymara and Spanish). English is spoken in the main tourist destinations and places.

Feeding times

The working day usually begins between 8AM and 9AM and people break for lunch at 2PM. In the afternoon, businesses open from 4PM to 8PM. There is a traditional "siesta" from 2 PM to 4 PM. Dinner is usually late. Usual diner time is 10 PM. It is not uncommon to have midnight dinner reservations.

Tipping

Most restaurants add a 10 percent service charge to the bill, but some do not. The total tip should be about 15 percent.

Getting Around

The first destination for the travelers to Peru is Lima, its capital city and center of South America during the colonial times when it was called the City of Kings. Here you will discover its friendly and lively people, rich culture and superb food. Lima is a metropolis of changes, place of contrasts and showcase of all Peru. Once called the Garden City, Lima is a city to love or hate, where you will find space and time for doing everything. Being a never sleeping metropolis, its nightlife is full of fun and joy, and as choices are wide, contact with nature possible at one or two hours of distance!

Taxi There are taxis everywhere. It is the safest (only) mean of transportation in Lima. Taxis in Lima are not metered so you have to agree a price with the driver before entering the taxi. At Lima airport, however, big changes are taking place since the operation was privatized and taken over by a consortium headed by Frankfurt airport. No longer does the arriving passenger have to face a scrum of taxi drivers hustling and touting for business. Taxis are now made to queue and the price for a taxi to Miraflores is fixed at $15 (but you can bargain down to $10). Don't be fooled by touts and hustlers hanging around the airport; have nothing to do with any of them no matter how "official" they say they are.

I have heard of scams being run by the Lima airport taxi drivers. They tell arriving passengers that Lima center is extremely dangerous (not true). They then take passengers to Miraflores at an inflated cost and receive a commission from hotels there. Another scam is they pretend to call your hotel, then say either you don't have a reservation or your hotel is full or has burnt down or some other story. They then take you to another hotel where they get commission. Nearly all hotels offer an airport pickup service (if arranged in advance) so take advantage of this.

The Pary Alfaro brothers (Fernando and Jose Luis) are a very reliable alternative form of transportation. They can be hired for $13 USD for transports to and from the Airport. They will wait for you and provide extra security and help. Jose Luis can be reached at: 977-6708 and Email, and Fernando at 808-9755 or Email

Warning

People have the impression that Lima is a dangerous city; I don't believe it is any worse than any other major city, but it is different, and there are some precautions you should take and districts you should definitely not go. Crime falls into various categories.

• Theft. Most crimes against gringo travelers are crimes of opportunity; don't give the crooks the opportunity. When out on the street don't wear a watch or any jewelry, keep your wallet and valuable documents in a neck or leg pouch (or, even better, in your hotel safe), only carry enough money for your immediate needs, don't carry your credit cards, keep an arm through the strap of your bag or pack and grip the body of your camera at all times, beware of distraction tricks, and never leave baggage unattended. Miraflores is safer than Lima center but don't make the mistake of thinking there aren't any snatch thieves in Miraflores because there are!
  WARNING On 27th July 2001 a visitor to Lima made a friend in a disco and took him back to his room. On waking up next day the visitor found that his new friend had gone and so had his portable PC with all his work for his Masters. Not so clever!
• Deception. Never do business with someone in the street; always go to the company office. Always deal with a reputable business. If you hand over money for any service you must get a receipt (boleta) with the company name on it. If you book a tour ensure the receipt says exactly what is included and what is not included.
• Violence. Violent crimes against gringos are normally very rare in Lima. However serious cases have occurred and precautions are essential.
  Do not pick up any of the hustlers to be found in and around Kennedy Park in Miraflores or surrounding streets.
  If you want to go out of the disco with your new friend try to tell someone who you are going with and where you are going. If you invite someone back to your hotel room make sure he hands his identity document to the receptionist. Alternatively, take your new friend to a love hotel (if you don't know of one ask one of the cab drivers parked outside the disco).
  In bars, discotheques, or anywhere, politely refuse an offer of drink, food, cigarettes, or even pamphlets from seemingly friendly strangers; their offer may be drugged. Buy your own drinks and collect them yourself.
  ALL OF THESE WARNINGS ARE VERY IMPORTANT BUT CAN BE EASILY FORGOTTEN AFTER A FEW DRINKS. BE WARNED! BE CAREFUL!
  Follow my advice, where given, for individual places.
• Drugs are fairly easily obtainable; on no account have anything to do with them. If you are caught, there is no bail while waiting trial (which can take well over a year), and the penalties are extremely severe.

Finally a few words about Lima traffic; it is anarchic, chaotic and ruthless. As a passenger in a taxi or bus you may as well sit back and enjoy the inevitable music and put yourself in the hands of fate, otherwise you will never leave the airport. You are much more at risk as a pedestrian; to Lima drivers you do not exist and you may as well be invisible. Assume that you are, and do not assume that drivers will stop at a red light or a stop sign, or indicate turns, or will not drive the wrong way on a one-way street or on the opposite carriageway. I have come close to being flattened more than once due to inattention.

Things to See

• Plazas - As every city in Peru, the Plazas (squares) are the main and central point. Spaniards established in each city a main square (Plaza de Armas) surrounded by a church and the local government buildings. In the case of Lima, the Plaza Mayor (formerly called "Plaza de Armas") was the old heart of Lima and its foundation place. The only original parts of it are the central old bronze fountain built in 1650 and the building (Casa del Oidor) in the corner of the Government Palace and the Archbishop's Palace.
  The Plaza Mayor was the scenery for the Independence Declaration on July 28, 1821 and it marked the beginning of the end of the Spanish colonial rule in Peru and South America. It is also the landmark and central point of all the area known as "Damero de Pizarro" (Pizarro's Square), which has been classified as a "Cultural Heritage of Humankind" since 1992.
• Government Palace - An impressive house where the President lives, surrounds the Plaza Mayor at the north. A visit to it is worthwhile. Try to watch the change of guard at 11:45 am everyday. At the east is located the Archbishop's Palace, built in this century with a superb balcony, and we find the Cathedral at the right hand of it. In front of it, there is the Municipal Palace, with an arcade corridor in the ground floor and two "suspicious" canyons in the balcony, recently found in the square. Between the Municipalidad and the Government Palace, there is a big statue of Francisco Pizarro on his horse, a statue claimed to be offensive to the city.
• From the Plaza Mayor we take the Jirón de la Unión, a long pedestrian street (full of shops and restaurants) that connects it with the Plaza San Martín, a big square built in the beginning of this century. At the center, there is a statue of General San Martín, the Argentinean liberator of Peru built for the Independence 100th anniversary in 1921. In the surroundings, there are arcade buildings with shops, nightclubs, restaurants and hotels.
• Other important squares are: Plaza Italia (Barrios Altos), Plaza Bolívar (in front of Congress), Plaza Grau (near Museo de Arte), Plaza Bolognesi, Plaza Alfonso Ugarte and Plaza 2 de Mayo
• Churches and Religious Buildings In central Lima there are more than 25 churches with historical value. This is a small reference of the most important ones.
  • The Cathedral remains in the same place where it was originally built, but has been rebuilt after some earthquakes (latest in 1746). It has interesting works of woodcarving in the choir stalls. The altars are finely covered with silver. In the walls, you can appreciate the original Spanish mosaics with the inscriptions of Pizarro and the coat of arms of Lima. There is a Museo de Arte Religioso at the back. In a chapel (right hand from entrance) lies the coffin and remains of F. Pizarro, the founder of Lima. Entry fee: S/. 5.
  • Notable for its baroque architecture and catacombs is the church and monastery of San Francisco, in the corner of Jr. Ancash and Jr. Lampa. Built in the 17th century, this church has cloisters with the famous Sevillian tiles, a good an old library with some rarities, José de Rivera's paintings, a "hidden" (not often seen) museum of religious art and the well-visited catacombs (under all the religious complex), which are said to contain the remains of 70,000-90,000 people. Is preferable to take the guided tours available there (also in English).
  • San Pedro is a Jesuit's church built in the 17th century and represents a good example of the early colonial architecture in Lima. It is the only one church, which have three main doors, apart from the Cathedral. This matter generated a problem in the Colony, because the cathedral was the unique church that had to have three entrances and the authorities understood it as defiance. The altars, wood-carved choir and the glazed tile work are worth seeing. This church was also a burial place for the majority of the Viceroys. There is a small and interesting chapel at the right side. In one of its towers you can see the old bell called "La Abuelita" (the grandma') which rang for the first time in 1590 and was the "official" sound in the Independence's Declaration (1821). San Pedro is located in the corner of Jr. Ucayali and Jr. Azángaro.
  • Santo Domingo church was built between 1540-99 and remains in the same place where Pizarro granted to Dominican friar Valverde. It is one of the religious jewels of colonial Lima. Inside it we can find the remains of Santa Rosa de Lima and San Martín de Porres (America's first black saint). Nice and peaceful cloisters. Near the altar there is an alabaster statue of St. Rose that was presented by Pope Clemente in 1669. Outside, glance the Angel Gabriel statue at the top of the sole tower; the other was destroyed during a battle held in the past century. First block of Jr. Camaná, one block from the Plaza Mayor.
  • Convento de Los Descalzos is a Franciscan religious complex located at the end of the colonial Alameda de los Descalzos (descalzos=barefoot) in the old and traditional district of Rímac. There is a collection of 300 paintings belonging to the Cusco, Quito and Lima schools. Through a good guided (45min) tour in Spanish is possible to visit the infirmary, the refectory, the pharmacy, the friars' cells and the two old chapels.
  • Other interesting churches are: San Agustín, with its impressive churrigueresque style facade and the surprising carved sculpture of "The Death" made by Baltázar GavilÁn (corner of Jr. Ica and Jr. Camaná); Santo Tomás, in the corner of Jr. Junín and Jr. Andahuaylas, it is said to have the only circular cloister in the world (apart from Vaticano's church); Jesús María, with a two centuries old carved golden altar in the first block of Jr. Moquegua; Iglesita del Puente, it is said to be the smallest church in the world in an area of approx. 6x4m (1 1/2 block after crossing the Puente de Piedra -stone bridge dating from 1610- back of Government Palace) and San Marcelo with a priceless pair of colonial doors, forth block of Ave. Emancipación.
• Colonial Buildings and Houses
  • The Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) was built in the early years of this century on the same site where Pizarro's house is located. The interiors are charming and luxurious with halls and saloons of different styles. Visit is possible, but you have to make an appointment (with documents) one or two days before. Entrance is by the door of Jr. de la Unión. As said lines up, watching the guard's change is a must (not necessary to be inside it). They wear the same uniform of the last independence battle (Ayacucho, 1824) and are called the "Húsares de Junín".
  • Nowadays used as the Foreign Affairs Ministry, the Palacio Torre Tagle is one the best evidences of the colonial mansion's architecture in Lima. Superb carved balconies and a courtyard surrounded by rooms and ironwork are its highlights. There is also a 16th century coach in exhibition. On weekdays, visit is only allowed to the patio (working hours). On Saturday is possible to visit the building, a tip expected if you want to visit all. Jr. Ucayali 363, near San Pedro church.
  • The Plaza de Acho is the main bullring of Lima. It was founded in 1776 by the Viceroy Amat and is considered the oldest in South America and one of the most important in the world. In October, they celebrate the "Feria del Señor de Los Milagros", an international well-known competition. There is an interesting Museo Taurino on its left side. It is located in Rímac district, just going ahead Av. Abancay and crossing the river Rímac.
  • The Quinta de Presa is now the Museo Virreynal, a fine mansion of the 18th century, which shows colonial furniture, Viceroy belongings, clothing and a old carriage. It is located in Rímac, some blocks near the corner of Av. Prolongación Tacna with Av. Pizarro.
  • Casa de Aliaga is the only colonial house in America, which is still occupied by the same original family (Jerónimo de Aliaga was one of Pizarro's soldiers). It maintains its colonial style and has a ceiling of the early Lima times. Located at Jr. de la Unión 224, beside Government Palace and the Central Post Office.
  • With five balconies and a lookout site, where Don Martín de Osambela used to watch with a telescope the arrival of galleons to Callao port, the Casa de Oquendo (or Palacio de Osambela) is a nice mansion in which art exhibitions are staged. Jr. Conde de Superunda 298.
  • By one side of the San Francisco church is located the Casa Pilatos, now the Tribunal Constitucional, a mansion from 16th century with stone pillars and unusual stairs at the entrance. Jr. Ancash 390.
  • Other colonial houses and mansions worth seeing in this area are: Casa de Las Trece Monedas, a 19th century residence which is now a restaurant (Ancash 536); Casa de la Riva, a 18th century building in Jr. Ica 426; Casa de la Rada, a bank office which was a fine building dating from the middle of 1700 (Jr. Ucayali, 3rd block). Casa Negreiros, now a restaurant in Jr. Azángaro 532; Casa Barbieri, Jr. Callao near the corner with Jr. Rufino Torrico; Casa Prado, Jr. Cusco 448; Casa Teatro de la AAA, Jr. Ica 323; Casa de Riva Aguero, Jr. Camaná 459, now a Popular Arts Museum of the Universidad Católica and Casa Museo Berckemeyer, a typical 17th century house in Jr. Lima 341.
  • Banco Central de Reserva del Peru Antonio Miro Quesada 445, Lima.The place to buy Peruvian numismatics.

Museums

Lima is by excellence, a city of museums. With more than 50 museums in the city, the best ones in Peru are located here. From public to private and from general to specialized museums, visiting them can be a good experience to know the different processes in topics like history, archaeology, anthropology, nature, culture, technology, art, religion, costumes, collections and crime. Although it is difficult to visit the majority of them in few days, we recommend you to visit the Museo de la Nación, Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historia, Museo de Oro, Museo Larco Herrera and Museo Amano. If you want to know specific details for each one and all the other museums available in this city, please check this list of Museums of Lima.

• Museo Amano Calle Retiro 160, Miraflores. Tel. 441-2909.
• Museo Arqueológico Rafael Larco Herrera Av. Bolívar 1515, Pueblo Libre. Tel. 461-1312.
• Museo del Banco Central de Reserva del Perú Jr. Ucayali 299, corner with Jr. Lampa, Lima. Tel. 427-6250 ext. 2657.
• Museo de la Nación Av. Javier Prado Este 2465, San Borja. Tel. 476-9875.
• Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historia Plaza Bolívar s/n, Pueblo Libre. Tel. 463-5070.
• Museo de Oro del Perú y Armas del Mundo Av. Alonso de Molina 1100, Monterrico, Surco. Tel. 435-0791.
• Museo de Arte Paseo Colón 125, Lima. Tel. 423-4732.
• Museo Aeronáutico Base Aérea Las Palmas, Av. Jorge Chávez, Surco. Tel. 477-0787 / 477-2575.
• Museo de la Electricidad Av. Pedro de Osma 105, Barranco. Telefax: 477-6577.
• Other Places of Interest
  • The nicest suburbs in Lima are Miraflores and San Isidro. Connected with the center by the Av. Arequipa and the Vía Expresa (expressway), they are a residential, commercial and quiet area. A good quantity of the best hotels, banks, companies and shops are located there. In Miraflores, it is common to have a stroll by its Parque Central and Parque Kennedy, especially in the afternoons and evenings. In these parks there are musical shows, paintings' exhibitions and a small and round artisans' market. Near there, you find cafés for watching how life walks, art galleries, bookshops, pubs, discotheques and restaurants (Calle de Las Pizzas, very frequented). Up from the Bajada Balta is the Parque del Amor (Park of Love) with a very big and sincere sculpture of a kissing couple lay in a bench. Miraflores is a good place for views of the Pacific Ocean.
  • San Isidro is more commercial, but the best residences and houses are found here, especially those surrounding the Golf de San Isidro club. A nice, traditional and quiet area is the Olivar de San Isidro, an old olive forest with a delightful environment. In the middle there is an artificial lagoon and the Municipal Library.
  • Next to Miraflores is Barranco, a traditional and bohemian suburb that was in the first middle of the 20th century the "house" of different recognized writers, poets and painters. Now it maintains its charm and has an active nightlife with an area full of pubs and restaurants with musical shows. By an alley from the Parque Municipal, you reach the poetic Puente de Los Suspiros (the Sighs' Bridge), an inspiring place for intellectuals and musicians.
  • Parque de Las Leyendas is the traditional zoo of Lima. It is located in San Miguel, 24th block of Av. La Marina. There is a good sample of typical animal species of Peru. They are classified in three natural regions (coast, highlands and jungle) where their environment has been physically recreated. There is a section called the "Baby Zoo" for young animals and other "International Zoo" for foreign and known animals like giraffes, bears, elephants, tigers and lions. There is an artificial lake, a carbon mine and a group of archaeological sites from the Maranga culture. Crowded at weekends. Outside the zoo, there are some souvenir shops.
  • The newest zoo and research center (since February 1999) is called Centro Ecológico Recreacional Huachipa, located in the same area and near the river Rímac (Av. Las Torres s/n, Huachipa, Ate). This place was created and is maintained by Sedapal, the drinking water service company of Lima, and although by the moment is not as big as the Parque de Las Leyendas, they have special care and equipment for the animals. Entry fee: S/. 5. Open 9am-4pm.

The Scene

Lima apparently has a relatively small gay community for a city of 8 million people. The gay scene is much smaller than Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, or Bogotá and about the same as Santiago. Also the gay scene here is so well-hidden that when I first came to Lima in 1997 it appeared there was no gay community here at all. After discovering the scene I decided to create this web-page so that gay visitors to Lima would quickly be able to find places that interested them without being put at risk or enticed into dangerous places or situations in an attempt to search for those places.

There is no gay listings magazine published in Lima. The magazine called Paradero that appeared in 2000 and part of 2001 is no longer published

Although Lima has become a little more liberal in the last few years bear in mind that Peru generally still has a macho and conservative culture. The gay rights movement in Peru is in its infancy and an attempt is being initiated to change the constitution. In the meantime Homosexuality continues to be viewed negatively so adjust your behavior accordingly and keep a low profile in public. Acceptance will only be achieved slowly and by not provoking reactionary elements.

The gay scene in Lima is free of dress-code, uniforms, and clones; dress for all occasions and places is casual lightweight summer wear (but in the southern winter months you will need a light sweater or jacket). There is no ageism. There is also a lack of attitude. You will find Limeños very friendly, interested in foreigners (gringos), and a fair proportion speak some English. It does help to be able to speak some Spanish, but not speaking Spanish isn't a bar to having a good time. Do I have to tell you where the best language classroom is?

Night life in Lima, and indeed in all major cities in Latin America, does not really start until after midnight. Many places offer free or reduced entry before midnight but things don't really get lively until 1 a.m. and then go on very late indeed. None of the discos listed here have darkrooms.

You will sometimes see a rainbow flag flying in Peru; occasionally in Lima, more so in Cusco. This is the flag of Tihuantinsuyo, the name of the Inca Empire. Any resemblance between this and the gay flag is purely coincidental. The sharp-eyed among you may spot the difference; if you don't know e-mail me.

Travelers to Peru who are convinced about the efficacy of Maca (the so-called "Peruvian Viagra") should stock up while they are here. A one-month supply costs $7.50 - a considerable saving on prices elsewhere. It is on sale at all pharmacies.

For those of you who like trivia, the patron saint of homosexuals, bus drivers, taxi drivers, job seekers and migrants is Sarita Colonia who was born in Lima in 1926 and died in 1952 and is buried in Cementerio Baquijano in Callao.

We recommend you visit Gay Guide to Lima,for the most current information on Lima's and cusco gay scene.

Organizations and Publications

• Artículo Neutro Gay web newsletter
• Chicos Peruanos Gay web portal
• De Ambiente Gay web portal
• Diario de Lima Gay Gay web portal
• Gay Lima We loved them!
• Gay Peru Av. Jose Galvez 285 - of. 201 (call first), Miraflores, Lima. Tel: 51 1 4462743. Email Gay Peruvian Website with useful information for tourists, travel agency, chat, personals, gayguide, galleries, theatre, movies, entertainment, news, and more.
• Grupo Jade del Peru Youth portal in northern Peru
• Outfest Peru Gay Film Festival
• PeruBears.com Gay web portal for bears
• Peru es Gay Internet "gay " magazine & portal.
• Via Libre Jiron Paraguay 478 & 486, Lima Centro (very near to Plaza Bolognesi), Tel: 433-1396, Fax: 433-1578, Helpline: 433-0003. Email
  

Dining

The Gourmet's choice Lima is the best place for food in all over Peru. Apart from its great range of native dishes, you can find here almost food from everywhere in the world. Chinese (Chinese restaurants are called "Chifas"), Japanese, Spanish, French, Italian, Arabian, Argentinean, North American, Brazilian, are some examples of the wide offer of restaurants in this capital city.

But, as native food is our business, we hardly recommend you to eat the famous Ceviche here; there are no better samples in any other city (unless it is in the coast). Other good options are Escabeche, Jalea de Pescado, Ají de gallina and Coctail de Camarones. For "small" food, try the papa rellena, anticuchos and pancita. In case, you are homesick and want a hamburger, we strongly encourage to eat at Bembo's Burger Grill, a Peruvian chain with lots of burgers and incredibly better than Burger King or McDonalds.

About desserts, try the picarones, suspiro (your sugar portion for a week), mazamorra morada, turrón de Doña Pepa and arroz con leche. You must drink the Pisco Sour (was born in Lima) or the "un-alcoholic" but refreshing chicha morada. If you want to drink the "national" soft drink (strong competitor of Coke and top-of the-market), try the yellowish Inca Kola. It is proved that the one made here is the best of others produced outside Lima.

The pisco sour will be surely the drink that you will miss every time. It is made with pisco (the white grape brandy national drink), lemon juice, egg white, sugar, cinnamon powder and syrup or Angostura bitter. There is a saying that after four pisco sours you will speak Japanese.

Chicha morada is a refreshing drink made of purple corn, common at lunchtime. Herb teas are varied and the most popular are mate de coca (good for altitude sickness), manzanilla, anís, hierba luisa, boldo, mint and eucalyptus. The best known of soft drinks (gaseosas) is Inca Kola.

All this activity is sure to make you hungry. Lima has no shortage of eating-places from top restaurants to street vendors. Here are a few where I have truly appreciated the food, the service and the price.

Breakfast

Most hotels will provide some sort of breakfast, but if you are like us and like a hearty one, I would recommend

Lunch

Lunch is a very big meal in Peru with long "siesta" breaks taken during the middle of the day. There are several "Lunch" restaurants in Miraflores that will cater to the local Limenos quite inexpensively.

Dinner

Shopping

Markets & Shopping Although Lima markets are not as typical as those in other Peruvian cities, a short visit to them would be good to know about the people and the food. The markets are a sample of how a city is, what do they produce, sell and eat, their mood and how wit they are to survive. If possible, try to go with a local in order to be explained about things you surely have not seen before. If you want a real "exhibition" of fruits available in Peru, go to the Mercado de Frutas (in La Victoria, don't take belongings with you), the central trading point of fruits coming from all the regions. Probably you will want to take one bundle of each!! Other known "mercados" are: the Mercado Central, between the Av. Abancay and the Chinatown; Mercado Aurora, one block off Av. Tacna in Av. Emancipación; Jesús María market, in the district of same name and the Mercado de Barranco, some blocks near the Parque Municipal of Barranco.

Formerly, there was a big flower market in the southern side of the National Stadium. Then, with the new changes the Major has made, they have been transferred to different areas and in the same place, there are only few flower vendors. However, worth a visit to see the great quantity of flower species and colors. Next to it, there is the Municipal Greenhouse, which now is employing (with good social and economic results) the poor wee children who used to rob in central Lima. The other flower markets are located in the Plaza de Acho area and the corner of Vía de Evitamiento and Puente Santa Rosa in Rímac. You have to be careful when going to these both places.

For shopping in supermarkets, there is a wide quantity of them in all Lima. They are very supplied and have special days for discounts, which are advertised in frequently in El Comercio daily. The best supermarkets are E. Wong, Santa Isabel and Metro (hypermarket). Avoid the Top Market chain, they usually charge you a different price from what is said in the showcases and the attention to clients is bad.

If you want to go for a non-budget shopping day in great malls and trading center try the Jockey Plaza Shopping Center, the last biggest mall of Peru and one of its size in South America. The great part of shops there, are for clothing, but there are also restaurants, department stores, fast food, multiplex cinemas, home appliances, etc. It is now a custom for limeños to stroll in Saturdays and Sundays. LarcoMar is the newest shopping center, which is located in the last block of Av. Larco, Miraflores. There are cafés (inc. a Hard Rock café with sea view), multicinemas, shops, bowling, restaurant, park, etc. Centro Comercial Camino Real, famous before Jockey Plaza was built, is a big center of three levels in the area of San Isidro. In San Miguel, there is the Plaza San Miguel, another mall that has been changed and improved. Popular with food, department stores and multiplex cinemas. In Chacarilla (on the way to Museo de Oro), are located the Centro Comercial Caminos del Inca and C.C. Chacarilla, whose "delicacy" is clothing. Others are: C.C. Risso and C.C. Arenales in Lince. The most popular department stores in Lima are Saga Falabella and Ripley. The first blocks of Av. Larco are also popular for shopping as well as the Jirón de la Unión in Central Lima.

Formerly behind the Government Palace (incredibly true!), the ex-black market known as Polvos Azules now has been transferred to a place near the Plaza Grau (one block off) where they are building a trading center as a completion of its legalization process. You can find there almost anything (new) at good prices (some of them are smuggled). For secondhand or stolen things, try the a-bit-dangerous "La Cachina" market, in the first blocks of Av. Argentina next to the Plaza Castilla. There is also a fair of hardware and house-building goods.

Lima is the best choice for buying handicrafts of good quality with no substantial difference in price comparing to other Peruvian cities. The so-called "Indian markets" display a wide range of handicrafts from all over Peru (sometimes the best pieces are here): weavings, woolen clothing, copies of colonial paintings, jewelry, bric-a-brac, ceramics, woodwork, silver filigrees, alpaca sweaters, iron and leather work. First, watch around and after having found the best price, buy. Bargain is possible, but don't pull the thing so much!! They are located in the Av. La Marina, blocks 6th to 10th, Pueblo Libre. Other good option is the Miraflores' Crafts Market in Av. Petit Thouars, varied but smaller than la marina markets, 3 blocks from the Miraflores roundabout.

For exchange and cheap books, try the Jr. Quilca fairs, between Plaza San Martín and Av. Garcilaso de la Vega (ex-Wilson). Expensive (but good) books at Librería Epoca (Ovalo Gutiérrez) and the bookshops located in Av. Larco (both in Miraflores).

Beaches

The best time for visiting Lima is in the summer. It is sunny and the sky forgets for three months the usual mist it has. And is also the best time to see how limeños go massively to the beaches, especially to the Costa Verde and south of Lima beaches.

All the beaches that are in the border of Barranco, Miraflores and San Isidro are called the Costa Verde, the Green Coast, because formerly there were subterranean rivers that came out from the middle of the cliffs and watered all the area becoming green. Now, these beaches are very crowded between January and March. The most recommendable are Playa Redondo, Barranquito and Los Pavos. But, you have to be careful with your belongings, is common to "find" pickpockets while you are sunbathing. Camping here is a bad idea. For going to these beaches, just follow the down way (Bajada Balta) from the central park of Miraflores. Sunsets (18:20-18:45h) viewed from upside the cliffs are really supreme!

South of Lima (by the Panamericana), there are a lot of bathing resorts and good beaches, some like fishermen villages and other luxurious ones. The most known and best ones are El Silencio (km 42), Punta Hermosa (km 44), Punta Rocas (highly rec. for surfing-km 45-), Punta Negra (km 46), San Bartolo (km 52), Santa María (km 55) and Pucusana (km 65). In these beaches is possible to find hotels or rent houses for the summer. The following beaches up to the km 150 are frequented for weekend camping. Just catch a bus in any part of the Pan-American Highway saying "playas del sur" or the names written above. Distances take between 45min to 2 hours.

There are no exclusively gay beaches but if you go to Playa Makaha and Playa Waikiki in Miraflores, and Playa Las Cascadas in Barranco you never know who you might meet. Watching the surf-boys doing it standing up amply compensates for having to lie on the hard pebble beach. Take sun-cream (factor 15 minimum); the sun is MUCH stronger than you think - even when it is cloudy. You are advised not to go in the water; apart from it being very cold, taking a dip is virtually guaranteed to have you poised over the potty for a couple of days.

Cusco

If you are going to leave the Lima area for any reason, you must use the services of a local travel agent. Navigating the Peruvian bureaucracy is bad enough in Lima, but almost impossible anywhere else. I have heard horror stories of wrong names on the Aereo Continente airline tickets (the Peruvian National Airline) and poorly written tickets for the train ride to Machu Picchu (the helicopter does not run anymore), or worse, in second class (you do not travel anything but first class on Peru Rail). Please spend a few extra dollars on the services of a competent tour agency. It will save you innumerable headaches later.

I can recommend the following service (based on personal experience):

• Peruvian Life S. A. C. Lourdes Mar Monrroy Calle Diez Canseco 337, Miraflores. Tel: 51-1-444-8825 or 446-3246. Email. We were very pleased with Lourdes. Always a driver and a guide, first class service all along and got us the Machu Picchu tour with Darwin Camacho Paredes (a must), the Cusco University Professor who is trying desperately to save the Machu Picchu ruins for posterity.

We also like to thanks Cusco Weekly for the insight information they provided.

If you are taking internal flights in Peru you MUST reconfirm your return flight 72 hours before departure. (One of the reasons to use a tour guide). Domestic airlines persistently overbook flights, particularly on the Cusco route, and if you don't reconfirm you will lose your seat. Check-in time for internal flights is two hours before flight departure and airport tax is S/.12. Check-in time for international flights is three hours before flight departure and airport tax is US$25.

Soroche or High Altitude Disease

Cusco is at 10,900 ft (3330 meters) above sea level. Visitors to high-altitude Andean destinations such as Cusco (11,000 feet), Machu Picchu (8,000 feet), or Lake Titicaca (13,000 feet) should discuss the trip with their personal physician prior to departing the United States. Travel to high altitudes could pose a serious risk of illness, hospitalization, and even death, particularly if the traveler has a medical condition that affects blood circulation or breathing. Several U.S. citizens have died in Peru from medical conditions exacerbated by the high altitude. All people, even healthy and fit persons, will feel symptoms of hypoxia (lack of oxygen) upon arrival at high-altitude. Most people will have increased respiration and increased heart rate. Many people will have headaches, difficulty sleeping, lack of appetite, minor gastric and intestinal upsets, and mood changes. Most people may need time to adjust to the altitude. To help prevent these complications, consider taking acetazolamide (Diamox) after consulting your personal physician, avoid alcohol and smoking for at least one week after arrival at high altitudes, and limit physical activity for the first 36 to 48 hours after arrival at high altitudes.

Elements responsible for incidence and severity of Soroche.

• How fast you reach the altitude: the faster the higher the risk.
• How high you go, the higher the worst risk.
• Length of stay: the longer you stay the higher the risk.
• Intense physical activity
• Diet: full fat and protein diet and dehydration increase the risk.
• Individual susceptibility.

Types of Soroche or High Altitude Disease

• Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
• High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)
• High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)

AMS, most common and less threatening. HAPE, less frequent but if untreated will lead to HACE which, even though it is rare, may develop suddenly and could be lethal. Hydration and coca leave tea are helpful, but they are not a substitute for medical treatment when experiencing severe symptoms.

Mild Symptoms

• Headaches
• Lightheadedness to fainting
• Nausea, vomit and loss of appetite
• Weakness and extreme tiredness
• Trouble sleeping and anxiety

Seek medical attention with any of the following severe symptoms

• Shortness of breath, even at rest
• Coughing or dyspnea
• Confusion
• Inability to walk in a straight line

The Amazon Jungle

In jungle areas east of the Andes, chloroquine-resistant malaria is a serious problem. Cholera, yellow fever, hepatitis and other exotic and contagious diseases are also present. Diarrhea caused by contaminated food or water may affect travelers, and it is potentially serious. If it persists, please seek medical attention. Local tap water in Peru is not considered potable. Only bottled water or treated (disinfected) water should be used for drinking. Fruits and vegetables should be washed with care, and meats and fish should be thoroughly cooked. Eggs, meat, unpasteurized cheese, and seafood are common sources of the bacteria that can cause travelers' diarrhea, and they should be properly prepared or avoided. Information on vaccinations and other health precautions may be obtained from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's hotline for international travelers at 1-877-FYI-TRIP (1-877-394-8747); fax 1-888-CDC-FAXX (1-888-232-3299), or via the CDC's Internet site. Cusco is at the beginning of the Amazon jungle region. It is possible to do a tour of the jungle. You must do Malaria prevention if you are going to the jungle and it is imperative you make your arrangements with a qualified tour company.

Questions to ask before booking a Manu jungle expedition

• Is the company a member of the "Eco-tour-Manu"?
• Will they show you in a map exactly where you are going?
• How do they help conserve the Manu Biosphere Reserve?
• What are the nightly accommodations?
• Am I allowed to meet the guide before I decide to book the trip?

Questions for your guide

• What is the meaning of ecology?
• How long have you been doing this?
• Do you feel you (and your company) do a good job?
• Can you show me in a map where we are going?
• How does this trip help local communities?

The Inca Trail

Inca Trail hikers are significantly safer if they are part of a guided group trail hike. To protect natural resources along the Inca Trail, the Peruvian Government raised the fees for hiking the trail in early 2001 and instituted limits on the numbers of hikers permitted on the trail. Hikers in peak season (June-August) are advised to make reservations for the Inca Trail in advance via a travel agency. Visitors should always register when entering national parks. Hikers should exercise extreme caution in steep or slippery areas, which are neither fenced nor marked. Several climbers have died or suffered serious injuries after falling while climbing Huayna Picchu, a peak near Machu Picchu. Only very basic medical assistance is available at Machu Picchu. Travelers to all remote areas should check with local authorities about geographic, climatic and security conditions.

Adventure travelers should be aware that rescue capabilities are limited. In recent years, several hikers have died, and others have had to be rescued after serious accidents in the Huaraz region of the Cordillera Blanca mountains, where Peru's highest peaks are located. Most rescues are carried out on foot because helicopters cannot fly to the high-altitude areas where hikers are stranded. Swimmers, rafters and boaters should be aware of strong currents in the Pacific Ocean and fast-moving rivers. An American citizen was killed while white-water rafting in 2002. Travelers are advised to seek advice from local residents before swimming in jungle lakes or rivers, where alligators or other dangerous creatures may live. All adventure travelers should leave detailed written plans and a timetable with a friend and with local authorities in the region, and they should carry waterproof identification and emergency contact information.

The famous Inca trail can be a wonderful experience. The hike is usually four days in duration (guard against anything shorter than that) and again you must have a qualified guide and tour package to do it.

Please ask the following questions to your tour guide/company

• Will there be a first aid kit?
• Are your guides trained in CPR?
• Do you feed your porters and what do you give them?
• Are your porters given proper room and board?
• How difficult will the hike be?
• Do you have a meal plan for each day?
• Do you have three season tents?
• Are your guides knowledgeable in birds, plants, and culture?
• Do you have regulations? Are they printed? Can I get a copy?
• What is the maximum weight your porters carry? (It should be 20 - 25 kilos or 44 - 55 lb.).
• How much are your porters paid?
• How do you handle the waist from the expedition? Do you use plastic water bottles?

Bars & Clubs

Cusco isn't as friendly as Lima and attacks do happen. Definitely the worst thing you can do is walk the back streets of Cusco after dark after having had a drink or three. Always take a taxi between your hotel and the main square or other destination (and back), take a taxi from a legitimate taxi company, after entering the taxi lock all the doors from inside and close the windows, don't let anyone else into the taxi, insist the taxi goes right to the door of your hotel. Note these numbers of licensed taxi companies - 247080, 222222 and 222000. I mean this most sincerely, folks. Be warned.

Organizations and Newspapers

• Globos de Los AndesCalle Arequipa 271, Cusco. Tel: 51-84-23-23-52. Email Hot Air Balloon excursions starting at $300 for two.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is at 7824 ft. (2400 meters), so in essence you will get some relief from soroche if you are coming from Cusco.

Once again I would strongly advise you make all your arrangements through a local travel agent. There is no longer a helicopter ride between Cusco and Machu Picchu so you must do the 3 1/2 hour train ride both ways. There are two altelnatives: The New Orient Express and Peru Rail. I do not have any information on the New Orient Express. Make sure your travel agent books you in first class no matter which option you choose. The last train stop before Machu Picchu is Aguas Calientes (altitude 6890 ft. or 2100 meters), a very picturesque chanti town. From here you will board a bus for 30 minutes and will rise about 934 ft. or 300 meters to the sanctuary.

The Machu Picchu day tour lasts about 2hrs. once you enter the park, there are no food or sanitary facilities for the duration of the tour. There is an option of staying the night or returning to Cusco on the 3 PM train.

If you decide to do the day tour, make sure you arrive to the train station 20 minutes before departure. If you miss your train, the next train will be the next day! It is advisable to take a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent, water (bottled), and a raincoat to Machu Picchu. Weather is unpredictable and varies.

I would recommend you request Darwin Camacho Paredes (a must) as your guide, the Cusco University Professor who is trying desperately to save the Machu Picchu ruins for posterity. Best tour we ever had!!!

If you stay overnight, you have several options. There is a trail that goes north to Wayna Picchu (Small Mountain) that is challenging (do not attempt this if you are afraid of heights) and can be done in several hours depending on your physical abilities. You must sign in and out and entry to this trail stops at 2pm.

On the other end, south, towards Machu Picchu (Big Mountain) you can walk to the watchman's hut where the trail splits in two. The one to your left goes to the Sun Gate (Entry into the city) and can be easily walked in 2hrs. Or if you go right, you can climb Machu Picchu (big mountain) or just go to the Inka bridge.

Whether you trail or just admire nature (beautiful sunrise), make sure you respect the sanctity of the place.

On the way back, you may wish to get off the train at Poroy (the last train station before Cusco), but if you do, have your Cusco hotel arrange a driver to tour you back. There have been instances of Police barricades that result in time delay and some sort of fine (at their $100/mo salaries it is hard not to blame them).

References

• The Tropics - Lima
• Peru Hotels
• Gay Lima
• Gay Peru
• Interknowledge Lima