PinkAgenda

Community Calendar and Travel Information

Gay in Milan, Florence, and Venice - Italy.

Carlos T. Mock, MD and William R. Rattan

Updated August 2006

See our Photos.

Southern Italians, perhaps resentful of the north's hard-earned prosperity, sometimes declare that the Milanese are like the nearby no-nonsense Swiss. With two million inhabitants, Milan (Milano) is Italy's most dynamic city. Milan is Italy's window on Europe, its most sophisticated and high-tech metropolis, devoid of the dusty history that sometimes paralyzes modern developments in Rome and Florence or the watery rot that seems to pervade Venice.

Passport and Visa

A valid passport is required. Italian authorities may deny entry to travelers who attempt to enter Italy without a valid passport. A visa is not required for tourist stays up to three months. For further information concerning entry requirements for Italy, travelers may contact the Embassy of Italy at 1601 Fuller St. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20009, tel. 202-328-5500, or the Italian Consulates General in Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Newark, New Orleans, New York, Philadelphia, or San Francisco.

Tourists staying other than in hotels for more than one month should register with the local police station and obtain a "permesso di soggiorno" (permit to stay) within eight days of arrival in Italy. Visitors to Italy may be required to demonstrate to the police upon arrival sufficient means of financial support. Credit cards, ATM cards, travelers' checks, prepaid hotel/vacation vouchers, etc. can be used to show sufficient means.

In an effort to prevent international child abduction, many governments have initiated procedures at entry/exit points. These often include requiring documentary evidence of relationship and permission for child's travel from the parent(s) or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, may facilitate entry/departure.

Documents

Language

Italian, romantic Italian, English is spoken in tourist areas.

Time Zone and Time Difference

Italy is on Continental time 6 hours ahead of New York and seven hours ahead of Chicago. In 1996, members of the European Union agreed to observe a "summertime period" from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October. The clocks are an hour ahead of solar time (GMT) in winter, and two hours ahead in summer. The clocks change twice during the year. Check the "Time Ticker" for current time in your destination.

Currency

Forget traveler's checks, cash, or personal checks. All you really need is a valid ATM and credit card. Charge as much as you can, thus ensuring the best exchange rate at all times and only take out cash from an ATM machine as needed. Avoid exchanging back to US currency by paying your hotel bill with excess cash and charging the rest. All major credit cards are accepted everywhere. Keep enough cash to get you to the airport. Remember your fare on the way down and keep that much for the return.

Since 1 January 2002 the EURO (€) is the official currency of Italy (together with 10 other European countries). It is divided in 100 cents. Coins come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cents; and 1 and 2 EURO (€). Notes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 EURO (€). Most shops, restaurants and hotels accept all major Credit Cards. As of printing, one Euro equals about 1.29 USD.

Holidays

Italy Public Holidays 2006

January 1 New Year's Day

Feeding times

The working day usually begins between 8AM and 9AM and people break for lunch at 2PM. In the afternoon, businesses open from 4PM to 7PM. There is a traditional "siesta" from 2 PM to 4 PM. In northern Italy Dinner is usually early. Usual diner time is 7 PM. It is not uncommon to have the kitchen close by 10pm.

Tipping

Service and tip are included in the prices at hotels, in restaurants, and for taxi fares. For good service, you may leave a few coins extra at your discretion.

Climate and weather

Monthly Average Temperatures in C°
Month Max Temp Average
Max Temp		 Average
Min Temp		 Min Temp
Jan 20 13 4 -7
Feb 20 14 5 -5
Mar 24 15 6 -4
Apr 25 18 7 0
May 30 22 11 2
Jun 31 25 14 8
Jul 35 28 17 10
Aug 34 28 18 10
Sep 31 25 15 7
Oct 28 22 11 3
Nov 25 15 7 -4
Dec 18 13 5 -5

Milan

Airports |Dining | Getting Around | Lodging | References | Scene | Shopping | Things to See |

Part of the work ethic that has catapulted Milan into the 21st century might stem from the Teutonic origins of the Lombards (originally from northwestern Germany), who occupied Milan and intermarried with its population after the collapse of the Roman Empire. In the 14th century, the Viscontis, through their wits, wealth, and marriages with the royalty of England and France, made Milan Italy's strongest city. And Milan initiated a continuing campaign of drainage and irrigation of the Po Valley that helped to make it one of the world's most fertile regions.

In the 1700s, Milan was dominated by the Habsburgs, a legacy that left it with scores of neoclassical buildings in its inner core and an abiding appreciation for music and (perhaps) work. In 1848, it was at the heart of the northern Italian revolt against its Austro-Hungarian rulers and, with Piedmont, was at the center of the 19th-century nationalistic passion that swept through Italy and culminated in the country's unification. During this same period, Milan (through the novelist Manzoni) was encouraging the development of a Pan-Italian dialect.

Today, Milan is a commercial powerhouse and, partly because of its 400 banks and major industrial companies, Italy's most influential city. It's the center of publishing, silk production, TV and advertising, and fashion design; it also lies close to Italy's densest collection of automobile-assembly plants, rubber and textile factories, and chemical plants. Milan also boasts La Scala, one of Europe's most prestigious opera houses, and a major commercial university (the alma mater of most of Italy's corporate presidents). In addition, it's the site of several world-renowned annual trade fairs.

With unashamed capitalistic style, Milan has purchased more art than it has produced and has attracted an energetic group of creative intellects. To make it in Milan, in either business or the arts, is to have made it to the top of the pecking order. If you came to Italy to find sunny piazzas and lazy bright afternoons, you won't find them amid the fogs and rains of Milan. You will, however, have placed your finger on the pulse of modern Italy.

Airports

Milan has three airports: the Aeroporto di Linate (LIN), 7km (4 1/4 miles) east of the inner city; the Aeroporto Malpensa(MXP), 50km (31 miles) northwest; and Malpensa 2000, 4km (2 1/2 miles) north of the old Malpensa. Malpensa and Malpensa 2000 are used for most transatlantic flights, whereas Linate is used for flights within Italy and Europe. For general airport and flight information, call tel. 02-74852200.

Upon arriving to the airport, you can readily take an express trains that will take you to a main subway terminal - Cadorna. Malpensa Express trains will whisk arrivals from either Malpensa airport to the Cadorna station in the heart of Milan in about 45 minutes. They run every 30 minutes daily 5:30am to 8pm, and every hour from 9pm to midnight. A one-way ticket costs 9€ for adults and 5€ for children 4 to 12 years old. Alitalia passengers ride the Malpensa Express free.

Buses run between Linate and the Centrale station every 30 minutes daily 6am to 11pm. A bus (no. 73) also runs between Piazza San Babila and Linate airport every 20 minutes daily from 5:35am to 12:30am. Buses run from Malpensa and Malpensa 2000 to Stazione Centrale daily every 30 to 45 minutes, costing 5.05€ one way. For information about buses to and from the airports, call tel. 800016857. This is much cheaper than taking a taxi, which could run you a whopping 75€.

Rail

Milan is serviced by the finest rail connections in Italy. The main rail station for arrivals is Mussolini's mammoth Stazione Centrale, Piazza Duca d'Aosta (tel. 892021 toll-free in Italy), where you'll find the National Railways information office open daily 7am to 9:30pm. One train per hour arrives from both Genoa and Turin (trip time: 1 1/2-2 hr.), costing 12€ one way. Twenty-five trains arrive daily from Venice (trip time: 3 hr.), costing 19€, and one train per hour arrives from Florence (trip time: 2 1/2 hr.), costing 27€ to 41€ one way. Trains from Rome arrive every hour, taking 5 hours for the journey and costing 44€ one way. The station is directly northeast of the heart of town; trams, buses, and the Metro link the station to Piazza del Duomo in the very center.

For easy and English Language schedule and fares visit the Tren italia Website. If you are traveling within Italy by train (as we did) I recommend you order your train tickets from home. I also advise to pay the few extra Euros for a 1st class seat.

Getting Around

Money

Metro

The subway system is extensive and efficient, covering most of Milan; in addition, there are buses and trams, making it fairly easy to navigate. Regular tickets cost 1€ and are sold at Metro stations and newsstands. Some subway tickets are good for continuing trips on city buses at no extra charge, but they must be used within 75 minutes of purchase. You must stamp your ticket when you board a bus or tram, or risk incurring a fine. The tourist office and all subway ticket offices sell a travel pass for 3€ for 1 day, or 5.50€ for 2 days, good for unlimited use on the city's tram, bus, and subway network. For information phone toll free 800-80-81-81.

To phone a taxi, dial tel. 02-4040, 02-8585, or 02-4000; fares start at 2.50€, with a nighttime surcharge of 3€.

Don't try to drive within the relatively small Cerchia dei Navigli, where all the major attractions are located. It's easy to walk to everything in this area.

Visitor Information -- The Azienda di Promozione Turistica del Milanese, on Piazza del Duomo at Via Marconi 1 (tel. 02-72524301), is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 8pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 7pm, and Sunday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 6pm in summer (it closes 1 hr. early in winter). There's also a branch at Stazione Centrale (tel. 02-72524360), open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6:30pm, and Sunday 9am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 6pm

Things to see

The Scene

Despite the odd bout of finger wagging from the Vatican, Italy has long been notably free of anti-gay legislation. In the first half of this century, life was cheap, attitudes were relaxed, and boys were both. Today, the spread of affluence has broken the traditional link between poverty and sexual availability, although off-duty national servicemen have sometimes been known to turn wrist-engineers for a small fee.

Milan's gay venues open and close at an alarming rate, so a phone call to check the bar still exists is a good idea before you slip into something sexy. We recommend you check with Clubbing Magazine for the latest in Milan's scene.

Associations & Publications

Dining

We found that much to our surprise the Northern Italians eat much like the Americans. Most reservations were for 7pm and most kitchens closed by 10pm. we tended to have lunch at cafe's like Bar Castello. We only ate at Gargantua (which we recommend highly) and L’incontro which not only had great food, but owner Fiorenzo made our meals unforgettable.

Shopping

The Golden Triangle -- We recently met a well-heeled shopper from Florida who spent the better part of her vacation in Italy shopping for what she called "the most unbelievable variety of shoes, clothes, and accessories in the world." A walk on the fashion subculture's focal point, Via Montenapoleone, heart of the "Golden Triangle," will quickly confirm that impression. It's one of Italy's three great shopping streets. But expect high prices and service that's based on the salesperson's impression of how much money you plan to spend.

Corso Buenos Aires -- Bargain hunters leave the Golden Triangle and head for a mile-long stretch of Corso Buenos Aires, where you can find style at more affordable prices. Start off at Piazza Oberdan, the square closest to the heart of Milan. Clothing abounds on Corso Buenos Aires, especially casual wear and knockoffs of designer goods. But you'll find a vast array of merchandise, from scuba-diving equipment to soft luggage. Saturdays are unbelievably crowded here.

The Brera District -- You'll find more bargains in the Brera, the name given to a sprawling shopping district around the Brera Museum. This area is far more attractive than Corso Buenos Aires and has often been compared to New York's Greenwich Village because of its cafes, shops, antiques stores, and art students. Skip the main street, Via Brera, and concentrate on the side streets, especially Via Solferino, Via Madonnina, and Via Fiori Chiari. To get here, start by the La Scala opera house and continue to walk along Via Verdi, which becomes Via Brera. Running off from Via Brera to the left is the pedestrian-only Via Fiori Chiari, good for bric-a-brac and even some fine Art Deco and Art Nouveau pieces. Via Fiori Chiari will lead to another traffic-free street, Via Madonnina, which has some excellent clothing and leather-goods buys. Via Madonnina connects with busy Corso Garibaldi. This will take you to Via Solferino, the third-best shopping street. In addition to traditional clothing and styling, a lot of eye-catching but eccentric modern clothing is sold here. Don't miss the opulent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, built in 1865 and still one of the centers of Milanese shopping. The mall is topped with a glass roof and cupola, and the floor is covered with mosaics. Even if you can't afford the prices in the boutique shops, it's well worth stopping off here at around five o'clock to sip a cappuccino and watch the heading home from work.
      The best time to visit the Brera area is for the Mercantone dell'Antiquariato, which takes place on the third Saturday of each month (it's especially hectic at Christmas time) along Via Brera in the shadow of La Scala. Artists and designers, along with antiques dealers and bric-a-brac peddlers, turn out in droves.

Firenze

Airports |Dining | General Information | Lodging | References | Scene | Shopping | Things to See |

Florence, or Firenze, is one of Italy's "big three" tourist destinations, along with Venice and Rome. Its great churches, world-class art museums, fine shopping, and role as the gateway to Tuscany make it even more popular now than it was when writers like Elizabeth Barrett Browning, E.M. Forster, and Henry James made the city irresistible to English-speaking tourists.

Don't try to do Florence in one day--allow at least several days, especially if you're interested in visiting the major churches and touring the Accademia and Uffizi Galleries.

Mary McCarthy famously described Florence (Firenze) as a "City of Stone." This assessment digs deeper than merely the fact that the buildings, streets, doorjambs, sidewalks, windowsills, towers, and bridges are all cobbled together in shades of gray, stern rock hewn by generations of the stonecutters Michelangelo grew up with. Florence's stoniness is evident in both its countenance and its character. Florentines often seem more serious and slower to warm to strangers than the stereotypical Italians. The city's fundamental rhythms are medieval, and it's fiendishly difficult to get beyond the touristy surface and see what really makes Florence tick. Although the historic center is compact, it takes time and effort to get to know it personally, get the hang of its alleys, and understand the deep history of its palace-lined streets.

Airport

By Plane -- Several European airlines are now servicing Florence's expanded Amerigo Vespucci Airport (FLR) (tel. 055-30-615 for the switchboard or 055-373-498 for flight updates; 055-306-1700 for national flight info, 055-306-1702 for international flight info; also called Peretola (FLR), just 5km (3 miles) northwest of town. There are no direct flights to or from the United States, but you can make easy connections through London, Paris, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, and other major European cities. The regularly scheduled city bus 62 connects the airport with Piazza della Stazione downtown, taking about 30 minutes and costing 1€ ($1.15). Rather more expensive (4€/$4.60) but without the local stops is the half-hourly SITA bus to/from downtown's bus station at Via Santa Caterina 15r (tel. 055-214-721, 800-424-500, or 800-373-760), behind the train station. Metered taxis line up outside the airport's arrival terminal and charge a flat, official rate of 15€ ($17) to the city center.

Train

By Train -- Florence is Tuscany's rail hub, with connections to all the region's major cities. To get here from Rome, you can take the Pendolino (four daily, 1 3/4 hr.; make sure it's going to Santa Maria Novella station, not Rifredi; you must reserve tickets ahead), an EC or IC train (24 daily, just under 2 hr.), or an interregionale (seven daily, around 3 hr.). There are also about 16 trains daily from Milan (3 hr.) through Bologna (1 hr.). We choshis way to come to the city (from Venice). We recommend you book your train ticket from the USA by going to Tren Italia's Website.

Most Florence-bound trains roll into the Stazione Santa Maria Novella, Piazza della Stazione (tel. 800-888-088 toll-free in Italy, or 055-288-765; which you'll often see abbreviated as S.M.N. The station is on the northwestern edge of the city's compact historic center, a 10-minute walk from the Duomo and a 15-minute walk from Piazza della Signoria and the Uffizi. There are loads of budget hotels immediately east of there around Via Faenza and Via Fiume.

With your back to the tracks, toward the station's left exit (across from track 16) and next to a 24-hour pharmacy you'll find a tiny tourist info office open daily from 8:30am to 9pm, with a hotel-booking service (charging 2.30€-8€/$2.65-$9.20). The train information office is near the opposite exit to your right, across from Track 5. The yellow posters on the wall inside the anteroom list all train times and routes for this and other major Italian stations. Another copy of the Florence poster is just inside the sliding glass doors of the second, main room. For personalized help, you have to take a number from the color-coded machine (pink is for train information) and wait your turn -- often for more than an hour.

Back at the head of the tracks, the ticketing room (Salone Biglietti) is located through the central doors; at sportelli (windows) 9 to 18 you can buy ordinary unreserved train tickets. The automatic ticket machines were installed mainly to taunt us and rarely work. Around the corner from this bank of ticket windows is a smaller room where you can buy international tickets (window 7), make reservations for high-speed and overnight trains (windows 1-4), or pay for a spot on the Pendolino/ETR express to Milan, Bologna, or Rome (window 5).

At the head of Track 16 is a 24-hour luggage depot where you can drop your bags (2.60€/$3 per piece for 12 hr.) while you search for a hotel.

Exit out to the left coming off the tracks and you'll find many bus lines as well as stairs down to the underground pedestrian underpass which leads directly to Piazza dell'Unità Italiana and saves you from the traffic of the station's piazza.

Note that some trains stop at the outlying Stazione Campo di Marte or Stazione Rifredi, both of which are worth avoiding. Although there's 24-hour bus service between these satellite stations and S.M.N., departures aren't always frequent and taxi service is erratic and expensive.

Stamp Your Ticket -- Remember, if you're leaving Florence on the train, stamp your ticket in the yellow box at the start of the track before getting on the train.

General Info

Tourist Offices -- The city's largest Tourist Office is at Via Cavour 1r (tel. 055-290-832; fax 055-276-0383, about 3 blocks north of the Duomo. Outrageously, they now charge for basic, useful info: .50€ (60¢) for a city map (though there's still a free one that differs only in lacking relatively inane brief descriptions of the museums and sights), 2€ ($2.30) for a little guide to museums, and 1€ ($1.15) each for pamphlets on the bridges and the piazze of Florence. The monthly Informacittà pamphlet on events, exhibits, and concerts is still free. It's open Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 6:30pm and Sunday from 8:30am to 1:30pm.

At the head of the tracks in Stazione Santa Maria Novella is a tiny info office with some maps and a hotel-booking service, open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 9pm (to 8pm Nov-Mar), but the station's main tourist office (tel. 055-212-245) is outside at Piazza della Stazione 4. With your back to the tracks, take the left exit, cross onto the concrete median, and turn right; it's about 100 feet ahead. The office is usually open Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 7pm (often to 1:30pm in winter) and Sunday 8:30am to 1:30pm.

Another office sits on an obscure side street south of Piazza Santa Croce, Borgo Santa Croce 29r (tel. 055-234-0444), open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 7pm and Sunday 9am to 2pm.

Publications

At the tourist offices, pick up the free monthly Informacittà. The bilingual Concierge Information Magazine, free from the front desks of top hotels, contains a monthly calendar of events and details on attractions. Firenze Spettacolo, a 1.55€ ($1.80) Italian-language monthly sold at most newsstands, is the most detailed and up-to-date listing of nightlife, arts, and entertainment.

Websites

The official Florence Information Website contains a wealth of up-to-date information on Florence and its province, including a searchable hotels form allowing you to specify amenities, categories, and the like.

Firenze By Net, or the English version of Firenze.Net, and FlorenceOnLine are all Italy-based websites with English translations and good general information on Florence. The site for Concierge Information is an excellent little guide to this month's events, exhibits, concerts, and theater. Other site worth checking out is Your Way to Florence.

Florence's "City Code" -- What used to be Florence's city code of 055 is now an integral part of every phone number. You must now always dial it -- including the initial zero -- even

Internet

Internet Access To check or send e-mail, head to the now massive Internet Train, with 15 locations in Florence including their very first shop at Via dell'Oriuolo 25r, 3 blocks from the Duomo (tel. 055-263-8968); Via Guelfa 24a, near the train station (tel. 055-214-794); Borgo San Jacopo 30r, in the Oltrarno (tel. 055-265-7935), and in the underground tunnel from the train station towards town (tel. 055-239-9720). Actually, there are now 126 offices across Italy (36 in Tuscany, 4 in Umbria -- in Perugia and Orvieto), and the magnetic access card you buy is good at all of them, making plugging in throughout your journey that much easier. Access is 4€ ($4.60) per hour, or 1€ ($1.15) for 10 minutes; they also provide printing, scanning, Webcam, and fax services, plus others (bike rental, international shipping, 24-hr. film developing) at some offices. Open hours vary, but run at least daily from 9am to 8:30pm, often later.

Things to see:

Florence is the Renaissance city -- home to Michelangelo's David, Botticelli's Birth of Venus, and Raphael's Madonnas. It's where Fra' Angelico painted delicate Annunciations in bright primary colors and Giotto frescoed monks wailing over the Death of St. Francis. The city is so dense in art, history, and culture that even a short visit can wear out the best of us. Take a hint from that great pragmatist Mark Twain, who, after acknowledging the genius of Michelangelo, said "I do not want Michelangelo for breakfast -- for luncheon -- for dinner -- for tea -- for supper -- for between meals. I like a change occasionally."

Don't necessarily pass up the Uffizi or take a rain check on David and the Accademia, but do take the time to enjoy the simple pleasures of Florence -- wander the medieval streets in Dante's old neighborhood, sip a cappuccino on Piazza della Signoria and people-watch, haggle for a leather jacket at the street market around San Lorenzo, or immerse yourself in the greenery of the Boboli Gardens.

The Best Times to Sightsee -- Museums Open on Mondays: Palazzo Vecchio, Museo Bardini, Museo di Firenze Com'Era, Museo di Santa Maria Novella, Casa Buonarroti, Casa di Dante, Opera di Santa Croce, Museo dell'Opera del Duomo, Campanile di Giotto, Duomo's cupola, Opificio Pietre Dure, Museo Stibbert, Instituto e Museo di Storia di Scienza, Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, Museo Horne, Cappella Brancacci, Synagogue, Spedale degli Innocenti, Roman Amphitheater, and Museo Archeologico (Fiesole).

Sights Open During Il Riposo (1-4pm): Uffizi, Accademia, Palazzo Vecchio, Duomo and its cupola, Museo dell'Opera del Duomo, Campanile di Giotto, Baptistery, Palazzo Vecchio, Santa Croce, Galleria Palatina (Pitti Palace), Forte di Belvedere and Boboli Gardens, Cappella Brancacci, Roman Amphitheater, and Museo Archeologico (Fiesole).

Catching Calcio Fever -- To Italians, calcio (soccer) is something akin to a second religion. You don't know what a "fan" is until you've attended a soccer match in a country like Italy, and an afternoon at the football stadium can offer you as much insight (if not more) into Italian culture as a day in the Uffizi. Catch the local team, the Fiorentina, Sundays September through May at the Stadio Comunale, Via Manfredi Fanti 4 (tel. 055-262-5537 or 055-50-721. Tickets go on sale at the stadium box office 3 hours before each game.

Parks & Gardens -- Florence's best park is the Medici grand dukes' old backyard to the Pitti Palace, the Giardino Boboli. Less scenic, but free and more jogger-friendly, is the Parco della Cascine along the Arno at the west end of the historic center. Originally a wild delta of land where the Arno and Mugnone rivers met, the area later became a Medici hunting reserve and eventually a pasture for the grand duke's milk cows. Today, the Cascine is home to tennis courts, pools, a horse racetrack, and some odd late-18th- and early-19th-century features like an incongruous pyramid and funky neoclassical fountains. There's a flea market here every Tuesday morning. Though perfectly safe in the daylight, this park becomes a den of thieves and a hangout for heroin addicts after dark, as do most sections of the Arno's banks, so steer clear.

The Scene

The best source of current gay life in Florence is Clubbing Magazine.

Organizations and publications

Dining

We found that much to our surprise the Northern Italians eat much like the Americans. Most reservations were for 7pm and most kitchens closed by 10pm. we tended to have lunch at cafe's like Caffe delle Carrozze (real toilets), and Trattoria La Madia (excellent). We only ate at Boccadama (which we recommend highly) and Agora which not only had great food, but Michel made our meals unforgettable.

Shopping

The cream of the crop of Florentine shopping lines both sides of the elegant Via de' Tornabuoni, with an extension along Via della Vigna Nuova and other surrounding streets. Here you'll find big names like Gucci, Armani, Ferragamo, and Mila Schön ensconced in old palaces or modern minimalist boutiques.

On the other end of the shopping spectrum is the haggling and general fun of the colorful and noisy San Lorenzo street market. Antiques gather dust by the truckload along Via Maggio and other Oltrarno streets. Another main corridor of stores somewhat less glitzy than those on the Via de' Tornabuoni begins at Via Cerretani and runs down Via Roma through the Piazza della Repubblica area; it keeps going down Via Por Santa Maria, across the Ponte Vecchio with its gold jewelry, and up Via Guicciardini on the other side. Store-laden side tributaries off this main stretch include Via della Terme, Borgo Santissimi Apostoli, and Borgo San Jacopo.

General Florentine shopping hours are daily from 9:30am to noon or 1pm and 3 or 3:30pm to 7:30pm, though increasingly, many shops are staying open through that mid-afternoon riposo (especially the larger stores and those around tourist sights).

Venice

Airports |Dining | Geting Around | Lodging | References | Scene | Shopping | Things to See |

Venice is a preposterous monument to both the folly and the obstinacy of humankind. It shouldn't exist, but it does, much to the delight of thousands of visitors, gondoliers, lace makers, hoteliers, restaurateurs, and glass blowers.

Centuries ago, in an effort to flee barbarians, Venetians left dry-dock and drifted out to a flotilla of "uninhabitable" islands in the lagoon. Survival was difficult enough, but no Venetian has ever settled for mere survival. The remote ancestors of the present inhabitants created the world's most beautiful city. To your children's children, however, Venice might be nothing more than a legend. The city is sinking at an alarming rate of about 2 1/2 inches per decade, and at the same time, the damp climate, mold, and pollution here are contributing to the city's decay. Estimates are that, if no action is taken soon, one-third of the city's art will deteriorate hopelessly within the next decade or so. Clearly, Venice is in peril. One headline proclaimed, "The Enemy's at the Gates."

But for however long it lasts, Venice, decaying or not, will be one of the highlights of your trip through Italy. It lacks the speeding cars and roaring Vespas of Rome; instead, you make your way through the city either on foot or by boat. It would be ideal if it weren't for the hordes of tourists that descend every year, overwhelming the squares and making the streets almost impossible to navigate. In the sultry summer heat of the Adriatic, the canals become a smelly stew. Steamy and overcrowded July and August are the worst times to visit; May, June, September, and October are much better.

Although Venice is one of the world's most enchanting cities, you do pay a price, literally and figuratively, for all this beauty. Everyone leaves complaining about the outrageous prices, which can be double what they are elsewhere in the country. Since the 19th century, Venice has thrived on its visitors, but these high prices have forced out many locals. They've fled across the lagoon to dreary Mestre, an industrial complex launched to help boost the regional economy.

Today the city is trying belatedly to undo the damage that its watery environs and tourist-based economy have wrought. In 1993, after a 30-year hiatus, the canals were again dredged in an attempt to reduce water loss and reduce the stench brought in with the low tides. In an effort to curb the other 30-year-old problem of residential migration to Mestre, state subsidies are now being offered to the citizens of Venice as an incentive to not only stay, but also renovate their crumbling properties.

The greatest plan to save "Venice in peril" is to place mobile barriers at the three entrances to the port of Venice. The plan, drawn up decades ago and debated ever since, would cost anywhere from $2 billion to $4 billion. A huge mobile sluice gate regulating the movement of the tides was tested as late as 1992. The catch is the final project would need 79 of these sluice gates to save Venice from its own waters.

If you have nt already done so,I recommend you read The City of Fallen Angels by John Berendt before you go. It will enhabce your visit immensely.

When to Go

It's almost always high season in Venice, although the city is busiest in spring (Easter-June) and Sept-Oct. Accommodation can be hard to find then, as well as around Christmas, New Year and Carnevale (February). Like Italy's other great tourist hubs, Venice is at its worst in high summer (June-August): it's crowded, oppressively hot and sticky. The most pleasant time of year to visit is late March into May, with clear spring days and comparatively fewer crowds. September is the next best in terms of weather, but October is quieter. Flooding occurs in November and December, and winter can be unpleasantly cold - although seeing Venice under snow can be the stuff of fairy tales.

The year kicks off with the Regata delle Befana, the first of the lagoon city's 100-plus regattas, held on 6 January (Epiphany). The major event of the Venetian calendar is February's bewigged, bemasked and berobed Carnevale, the event that's spawned a million pastel postcards of pierrots and columbines looking unduly pensive. In May there's the Festa della Sensa (Feast of the Ascension), when Venice celebrates the Sposalizio del Mar (Wedding with the Sea). The Biennale arts fest is held every odd-numbered year in June in the pavilions of the Giardini Pubblici. July's Festa del Redentore is another highlight, with a regatta and fireworks festival. The Venice International Film Festival, Italy's version of Cannes, is held annually in August at the Palazzo della Mostra del Cinema on the Lido. The Regatta Storica in September is a historic gondola race along the Grand Canal that's well worth catching. November's Festa della Madonna della Salute procession crosses the Grand Canal via a bridge of boats.

Airport

The arrival scene at unattractive Marco Polo Airport (VCE) is filled with nervous expectation; even the most veteran traveler can become confused. Whether arriving by train, bus, car, or airport limo, everyone walks to the nearby docks (less than a 5-min. walk) to select a method of transport to his or her hotel. The cheapest way is by vaporetto (public motorboat); the more expensive is by gondola or motor launch.

Train

The Stazione Ferroviaria Saint Lucia is Venice's easiest access to the rest of Europe. We used the Trenitalia.com website to buy our tickets from venice to Florence. I recommend you buy your tickets in the USA and if you can afford the extra few Euros, to travel First class. Whether arriving by train, bus, car, or airport limo, everyone walks to the nearby docks (less than a 5-min. walk) to select a method of transport to his or her hotel. The cheapest way is by vaporetto (public motorboat); the more expensive is by gondola or motor launch.

Getting around

You can't hail a taxi -- at least, not on land -- so get ready to walk and walk and walk. Of course, you can break up your walks with vaporetto or boat rides, which are great respites from dealing with the packed (and we mean packed) streets in summer. You can buy 24 hour passes, or some for several days. THey are a fun way to see the city.

However, note that, in autumn, the high tide (acqua alta) is a real menace. The squares often flood, beginning with Piazza San Marco, one of the city's lowest points. Many visitors and locals wear knee-high boots to navigate their way. In fact, some hotels maintain a storage room full of boots in all sizes for their guests.

Visitor Information--Visitor information is available at the Azienda di Promozione Turistica, San Marco 71/F (tel. 041-5298711). Summer hours are daily 9am to 5pm; off-season hours are daily 9:30am to 3:30pm. Posters around town with exhibit and concert schedules are more helpful. Ask for a schedule of the month's special events and an updated list of museum and church hours because these can change erratically and often.

Venice lies 4km (2 1/2 miles) from the Italian mainland (connected to Mestre by the Ponte della Libertà) and 2km (1 1/4 miles) from the open Adriatic. It's an archipelago of 118 islands. Most visitors, however, concern themselves only with Piazza San Marco and its vicinity. In fact, the entire city has only one piazza, which is San Marco (all the other squares are campos). Venice is divided into six quarters (sestieri): San Marco, Santa Croce, San Polo, Castello, Cannaregio, and Dorsoduro.

Many of Venice's so-called streets are actually canals (rios) -- more than 150 in all, spanned by a total of 400 bridges. Venice's version of a main street is the Grand Canal (Canal Grande), which snakes through the city. Three bridges cross the Grand Canal: the white marble Ponte Rialto, the wooden Ponte Accademia, and the stone Ponte degli Scalzi. The Grand Canal splits Venice into two unequal parts.

South of Dorsoduro, which is south of the Grand Canal, is the Canale della Guidecca, a major channel separating Dorsoduro from the large island of La Guidecca. At the point where Canale della Guidecca meets the Canale di San Marco, you'll spot the little Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, with a church by Palladio. The most visited islands in the lagoon, aside from the Lido, are Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

If you really want to tour Venice and experience that hidden, romantic trattoria on a nearly forgotten street, bring along a map that details every street and has an index on the back. The best of the lot is the Falk map of Venice, sold at many news kiosks and all bookstores.
      A broad street running along a canal is a fondamenta, a narrower street running along a canal is a calle, and a paved road is a salizzada, ruga, or calle larga. A rio terra is a filled canal channel now used as a walkway, and a sottoportego is a passage beneath buildings. When you come to an open-air area, you'll often encounter the word campo -- that's a reference to the fact that such a place was once grassy, and in days of yore cattle grazed there.

Finding an Address--A maniac must've numbered Venice's buildings. Before you set out for a specific place, get detailed instructions and have someone mark the place on your map. Don't depend on street numbers; try to locate the nearest cross street. Because signs and numbers have decayed over 6 centuries, it's best to look for signs posted outside rather than for a number.

Every building has a street address and a mailing address. For example, a business at Calle delle Botteghe 3150 (3150 Botteghe St.) will have a mailing address of San Marco 3150 because it's in the San Marco sestiere (district), and all buildings in each district are numbered continuously from 1 to 6,000. (To confuse things, several districts have streets of the same name, so it's important to know the sestiere.) In this section, we give the street name first, followed by the mailing address.

Things to see

San Marco Welcome to the center of Venice. Napoleon called it "the drawing room of Europe," and it's one crowded drawing room today. It has been the heart of Venetian life for more than a thousand years. Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square) is dominated by St. Mark's Basilica. Just outside the basilica is the campanile (bell tower), a reconstruction of the one that collapsed in 1902. Around the corner is the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace), with its Bridge of Sighs. Piazza San Marco itself is lined with some of the world's most overpriced cafes, including Florian's (opened 1720) and Quadri (opened 1775). The most celebrated watering hole, however, is away from the square: Harry's Bar, founded by Giuseppe Cipriani but made famous by Hemingway. In and around the square are some of the most convenient hotels in Venice (though not necessarily the best) and an array of expensive tourist shops and trattorie. St Mark's Square Napoleon dubbed it the 'finest drawing room in Europe', and visitors and pigeons alike have been flocking here for centuries to strut and crow. There is a constant carnival atmosphere thanks to the cacophony of duelling cafe orchestras, cooing pigeons, and constant traffic of waiters serving alfresco diners. Now that most visitors arrive in Venice via the railway station, the magical symbolism of the waterside Piazzetta San Marco has to a great extent been lost. The piazzetta's two columns bear emblems of the city's patron saints: the winged lion of St Mark and the figure of St Theodore. St Mark's Square is one of the lowest parts of the city, and so is always the first to be covered in water when the acqua alta (high tide) arrives - a magical sight on a moonlit night. St Mark's Basilica St Mark's is one of the most spectacular houses of worship in the world, attesting to the Venetian Republic's former maritime and commercial might. Adorned with an incredible array of plundered treasures, it is a seething mass of domes and arches. The dress code requires knees, shoulders and upper arms be covered. The basilica was modelled on Constantinople's Church of the Twelve Apostles and consecrated in 1094. It is famous for its golden mosaics, particularly those above the doorways in the facade and decorating the interior domes. If you can wrench your eyes away from their glitter, take time to admire the 12th-century marble pavement. The basilica's many treasures include the gleaming Pala d'Oro altarpiece of gold, enamel and precious jewels. The Tesoro (Treasury) contains most of the booty from the 1204 raid on Constantinople, including a thorn said to have come from the crown worn by Christ. On the loggia above the main door are copies of the delightful prancing horses that were also hijacked from Constantinople (the gilded-bronze originals are on display inside). The basilica's 10th-century campanile collapsed without warning on 14 July 1902, and was rebuilt brick by brick over the following 10 years. Take the lift to the top for some fabulous views over the rooftops and lagoon. Palazzo Ducale The Piazzetta San Marco is overlooked by the exquisite Palazzo Ducale, for centuries the city's political heart. The pink and white Venetian Gothic fantasy housed the doge, the many arms of government and a couple of prisons. The doge's first-floor apartments are followed by a succession of increasingly grandiose state rooms on the second floor, including the Sala delle Quattro Porte (design by Palladio, paintwork by Titian and Tintoretto), the Anticollegio (four Tintorettos and Veronese's Rape of Europa), the Sala del Collegio (yet more Veroneses and Tintorettos), culminating in the immense Sala del Maggiore Consiglio (featuring Tintoretto's Paradiso, one of the world's largest oil paintings, and Veronese's Apotheosis of Venice). A trail of corridors leads you to the small, enclosed Bridge of Sighs, which crossed from the palace into the New Prisons. Brea