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Mention Argentina, and people think of solitary gauchos, sultry tango dancers or maybe Madonna emoting as Evita. Or at least they used to, before those romantic icons were supplanted by television images of people looting supermarkets and banging on pots and pans during massive and occasionally violent protests. Argentina certainly has plenty to cry about, with an economy on the verge of collapse and a revolving-door government that saw five presidents in two weeks. But despite its current woes, the romance of Argentina remains.
Generally speaking, Argentina remains a safe destination for travelers. Social unrest has subsided, though travelers may wish to avoid large demonstrations, which can grow violent. On the flip side, tourism - both by international travelers and by Argentines who can no longer afford to travel abroad - is on the rise.
After a 10-year absence, we went back to the country that has always captured our hearts. The erosion of the infrastructure struck us - it seems the whole country needs a coat of paint (among other things). We saw people living in the streets, we saw them searching the garbage for food but we saw very little begging. Everyone seems to have something to sell. On Avenida 9 de Julio, jugglers would stop traffic with their tricks and then try to collect a fee for their performances. Argentinean pride is still intact.
We were also charmed by the friendliness of the people. If we looked lost, they would stop to give directions. Everyone wanted to help. We befriended Marcelo Diego de La Falce, a tango instructor, who showed us a Buenos Aires that few tourists see. He was also the most gracious of hosts and took us to "La Catedral del Tango" better known as "La Catedral" and “La Marshall” for tango performances that are a must for all tango lovers (as well as those who don't yet know they love tango). Marcelo was also gracious enough to give us our first tango lesson. (Thanks for your patience!)
We were warned about being careful everywhere, but one thing is for sure, we always felt safe and welcomed.
Greenwich mean time minus 3 hours; Buenos Aires observes daylight-saving time. Due to both countries (USA and Argentina) observing DST and being in different hemispheres, the time difference shifts during the year. Check the "Time Ticker" for current time in Buenos Aires.
Ministro Pistarini International Airport Tel: (011) 5480 6111. Buenos Aires’s airport (code EZE), commonly referred to as Ezeiza after the neighborhood in which it is located, is the international gateway to Argentina. Situated 35km (22 miles) west of Buenos Aires, it is one of Argentina’s busiest airports and acts as a hub for flights to other South American cities, such as Santiago, Chile and Rio de Janeiro. Jorge Newbery Domestic Airport (code is AEP) Situated just four kilometers (2.5 miles) from Buenos Aires city center, on the Costanera Norte beside the Rio de la Plata, this recently upgraded airport is the pivotal point of the country’s domestic flight system.
To / From the Ezeiza International AirportTransport to the city: Taxi is the best way to travel to and from the city. Taxi Ezeiza (5480-0066) runs a kiosk at the airport. They will charge you 43 pesos to travel to the city (about US$14) and if you call them they will do the return trip for 35 pesos ($US11).
To / From Jorge Newbery Domestic Airport
The local bus 33 operates along the Constanera (coast road) at the front of the airport, goes to Retiro, then skirts the bottom of the city center and continues on to Paseo Colón. The number 37 operates between the airport and the Plaza del Congreso. Both cost 0.80 (coins only). Taxis to the city center cost between US$2 and US$5.
Domestic - US $8.00. International (except Montevideo) - US $18.00. Montevideo US $8.00.
A passport is required. U.S. citizens do not need a visa for visits of up to 90 days for tourism and business. In an effort to prevent international child abduction, many governments have initiated special procedures for minors at entry and exit points. These often include requiring documented evidence of relationship and permission for the child's travel from the parent(s) or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, may facilitate entry or departure. For current information concerning entry and customs requirements for Argentina, travelers can contact the Argentine Embassy at 1600 New Hampshire Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20009, tel. (202) 939-6400. Travelers may also contact the nearest Argentine consulate in Los Angeles, Miami, Atlanta, Chicago, New York, or Houston.
The Peso was pegged to the US Dollar in 1992 at a rate of 1 peso = $1. On February 11, 2002, faced with an economical crisis, Argentina allowed the peso to float. It quickly devaluated to the present 3.03 pesos per dollar. Credit cards are accepted everywhere and it is the best way to get a decent exchange rate. There is an ATM Machine at the airport and most everywhere in the city. ATM's are the best way to exchange your dollars into pesos. We rarely used our credit cards, since we were eating for less than US$10 at most restaurants. As long as you stayed with Argentinean wines, the bottles were under US$7 for very good wines at most restaurants (we strongly recommend San Telmo’s Malbec for all you red wine lovers)
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Buenos Aires is on the south side of the Rio de la Plata, in the southern hemisphere and the climate is generally mild and humid. Temperatures range between 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) in January to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) in July. From December to the end of February, the city can become extremely hot with an average humidity of 65 percent. In the winter months of June, July and August the level can increase to up to 95 percent. Most rainfall is during the summer. Two local winds, the 'Sudestada' and 'Pampero' can cause heavy rains and sometimes flooding.
For residents of the northern hemisphere, Argentina offers the inviting possibility of enjoying two summers in the same year, but the country's great variety and elongated geography can make a visit in any season worthwhile. Buenos Aires' urban attractions, for example, transcend the seasons, but Patagonian destinations, such as the Moreno Glacier in Santa Cruz, are best to visit in the summer months (December to February). The Iguazu Falls in subtropical Misiones province are best in the southern hemisphere's winter or spring when heat and humidity are less oppressive. The winter months also offer the opportunity to go skiing.
Specific comments on bank and public holidays in Argentina
December 31 is a Bank Holiday but there is no confirmation of what happens when it falls on a weekend. It is not a national holiday. Jews may also take the following days off: Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year) Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement). Muslims may also take the following days off: Eid al Adha (Feast of Sacrifice) Eid al Fitr (End of Ramadan) Islamic New Year
Spanish. English will only be spoken at the tourist centers and some hotels. Familiarize yourself with essential Spanish. You will need it.
The working day usually begins between 8AM and 9AM and people break for lunch at 2PM. In the afternoon, businesses reopen from 4PM to 8PM. There is a traditional “siesta” from 2 PM to 4 PM. Dinner is usually late; usually around 10 PM. It is not uncommon to have midnight dinner reservations. Bars do not get busy until midnight and discos will open at 1am and will be busy at 3am. A disco nap is a must to keep up with the locals.
There are Internet cafes on nearly every block, as well as "phone booth offices". They will charge you 1 to 2 pesos per hour for high speed internet access.
The zone we usually recommend to people for lodging is Recoleta. We usually advise people, to avoid staying in Downtown (where no one lives, because you have fewer people on the streets at night, and because areas like Florida St. in Downtown are plagued with highly sophisticated tourist traps). Apartments are recommended for stays of 7 days or more, but you may be able to find a nice one for around $50/night even for less than a week. We were favorably impressed with Loi SuiteS. Be careful when asking for your king size bed for you and your boyfriend/girlfriend. Some hotels do not care that you sleep in the same bed with your partner, but they "prefer" that there are two beds in the room.
Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, is one of South America's biggest cities with3 million inhabitants (14 million in the larger metropolitan area). For a city of this size the metro network is still very small although it's by far the oldest subway in South America. Porteños call their suway "SUBTE", short for Subterraneo.
Trains run from 5:00 until 22:20, every 3-4 minutes. FARES (2002) ARG $ 0.70 for one ride [approx. 0.25 US$]
The first line of the metro, Line A, was built and initially operated by a private company called Anglo American Tramway Company and opened in 1913. Construction of Line B and Line C was carried out during the 1930's and the first sections of Line D (Catedral - Palermo) and Line E (San José - Boedo) started operating during the 1940's. In 1963 all metro lines were united in Subterráneos de Buenos Aires (Subte). Line E was extended into the city center (Bolívar) in 1966 and to José María Moreno in 1973. After that there was no more metro construction until the mid-1980's when this line reached its terminus at Plaza de los Virreyes (1986) and Line D began growing towards the northwest, to Ministro Carranza in 1987, to José Hernández in 1997, to Juramento in 1999 and finally to Congreso de Tucumán in the year 2000.
This new station situated under Cabildo and Congreso avenues, on the border between the districts of Belgrano and Núñez, is one of the largest stations of the Subte network and dedicated to Argentine history. Along the platform, 16 busts of outstanding Argentine personalities, including Carlos Gardel and Jorge Luís Borges, are installed; in the station vestibule two large murals show decisive battles in the history of Argentina and some showcases exhibit historical objects from Buenos Aires museums.
The total network is 40.5 km and totally underground. Apart from the Subte there is a 7.4 km light rail line (called Premetro and opened in 1987) which serves the southwestern part of the city from Line E's terminus at Plaza de Los Virreyes.
The Colectivos (buses) will only be mentioned to warn tourists that unless you really know the system you should avoid them. However, a friend of ours recently moved to BA and has this to say:
You are rather dismissive about the colectivos but they are very useful and easy to use. The trick is to buy a copy of the Guia T guide book from a kiosk and from that you can work out which route to take. The guide comes in two sizes; a pocket size just covering Capital Federal, and a spiral-bound version covering Greater Buenos Aires. The cost of a ride is 80 centavos - 25c in your money. You need to put coins into a machine inside the bus (the drivers do not carry money) and the machine will give change from a 1 peso coin. The exchange rate these days is 1US$ = 3.00 pesos.
4383-5331 - this number was printed in the Buenos Aires Herald for English speaking tourists who are in trouble & need help during the night hours.
Cosmopolitan Buenos Aires is the capital city of the Argentine Republic. Its inhabitants are known as "Porteños". This is the business, banking, cultural and intellectual center of the country. Very little of its Spanish heritage can be seen today. During the 19th century the city experienced a boom, receiving a great architectural and cultural influence from Europe, mainly France. Due to this Buenos Aires is known as the "Paris of South America". Modern Buenos Aires with its high window curtain buildings contrasts the old French architecture of many of its buildings. The city surprises visitors with the wide avenues lined with trees, beautiful parks and magnificent residences.
A curious thing happened to us. Bill wanted to get a haircut and we walked into a salon. Most salons in BA are single sexed, salon for ladies and barbershops for men. Unless you see "unisex" in the doorway, you must go to a barbershop (guys). In case you are looking for a cut Arsenio Coiffeur, Parana 938, Centro, BA, Tel: 4813-1536 advertises in the gay rags. For $US 5, he'll cut your hair.
Centro - Plaza LaValle/Teatro Colon/Avenida 9 de Julio/Obelisco/Theater Center
San Nicolas, the original name for this part of the city, is the brainstem of the city of Buenos Aires. Enclosed by Rivadavia, Cordoba, Callao, and Madero Avenues and crossed by the 9 de Julio Avenue and the pedestrian streets Florida and LaValle. Plaza LaValle known as the Tribunales (court houses) composed of the famous Teatro Colon, one of the best opera houses in the world (well worth the tour), the Palacio de los Tribunales (Supreme Court, 1822), and the Palacio de la Justicia. 9 de Julio Avenue known worldwide for being the widest avenue in the world crosses the city from North to South. Its name is derived from the Argentinean Independence Day. Obelisco is a monument from the 30's by architect Alberto Prebisch, commemorating the 400 years of the city's founding. Located at the intersection of Diagonal Norte, Corrientes, and 9 de Julio Avenues.
Monserrat - Casa Rosada/ Plaza de Mayo/Catedral Metropolitana/Cabildo/Iglesia de San Ignacio/Congreso
The central nervous system of the Argentine Government includes Plaza de Mayo and Plaza de los dos Congresos. The first plaza houses Casa Rosada (1580 by Juan de Garay), which is the Presidential Palace, El Cabildo or the Army Museum, The Catedral Metropolitana where General San Martin in entombed. The second plaza houses the Congreso, or houses of parliament.
Puerto Madero - Reserva Ecologica/Lola mora/Fragata del Presidente Sarmiento
Puerto Madero was inspired by Liverpool port. Generated by Eduardo Madero in 1887. Today it is one of the most expensive neighborhoods in the city. The 16 old docks have been converted into high-end restaurants, cafes, lofts and business offices. the Yacht Club holds 400 sailboats and is the location of the Hilton Buenos Aires Hotel. There is an ecological preserve that consists of 360 hectares and has a great bike path. If you stay with our friends at Sandanzas Cultural Hostel, they will provide you with a free bike in the event that you like this sort of thing.
Retiro - Torre Monumental/Estacion Retiro/Plaza San Martin
Cordoba, Leandro N. Alem Avenues and San Martin Street border Retiro. Torre Monumental was called the English Tower and was a present from the English residents to commemorate the 100 years of Independence. Estacion Retiro is on land reclaimed from de Plata River and burned in 1897. It has been rebuilt to be one of the largest train stations in the world. Plaza San Martin On one end is the monument to the father of the country General Jose de San Martin executed by the French Louis Daumes in 1862. At the other end is the monument to the Argentines that died in the Islas Malvinas War (Falkland Islands) of 1982.
Recoleta - Plaza Francia/Centro Cultural Recoleta/Cementerio de la Recoleta/Basilica del Pilar
The name Recoleta comes from the Recoleto Monks (Franciscans) who founded a monastery in the 18th century. Bordered by Libertador, Callao, Avenues and Esmeralda, Austria, and Juncal Streets. Austria and Juncal is the most famous tourist area in the city and it is known as little Paris due to the French style, exclusive avenues, green spaces, stores and classy restaurants. Every Sunday in Plaza Francia the locals will display and sell Argentine handicraft. This is the center of the Recoleta. There is also a modern shopping center in the area. Take time to have coffee at either La Biela or Cafe de la Paix and enjoy the view. If your diet allows it stop at Freddo (Quintana and Ayacucho) for ice cream. Cementerio de la Recoleta - The most celebrated Argentineans, including Eva Peron and her family, are buried at this elaborate cemetery, where mausoleums replicate chapels, pyramids and Greek temples. Basilica del Pilar built in 1732 housed the Franciscan Recoletos until it was declared a National Historical monument. The cloisters of Nuestra Señora del Pilar are some galleries situated by the church, which have not been remodeled since its building in 1716 (the church was inaugurated in 1732). These cloisters were used as a way to climb to the pulpit and bell-tower, and as a storehouse. Nowadays there is an interesting museum inside them. The cloisters can be visited from Tuesday to Saturday, from 10:30 AM to 6:00 PM, and Sundays from 2:30 to 6:00 PM
Palermo - Jardin Japones/Museo Eva Peron/Bosques de Palermo/Planetario Galileo Galilei/Monumento a los Españoles
A very traditional neighborhood that houses most of the gay venues.Bordered by Santa Fe, Juan B. Justo, Cordoba, and Scalabrini Ortiz Avenues. Home to many restaurants and the artist community. Jardin Japones located on Casares y Figueroa Alcorta Avenues combines tanks and gardens in the Japanese architectural style. Museo Eva Peron 2988 Lafimur (at Gutierrez), Buenos Aires. Tel: 54-11/4809-3168. Opened in 2002 in a restored mansion in Palermo. Bosques de Palermo originally owned by Governor Rosas, this park opened to the public in 1874. Visit the Jardín de los Poetas, with sculptures of famous writers such as Alfonsina Storni, Felix Amador, Paul Groussac and Enrique Larreta. Enjoy the Rosedal where the colorful roses are kept. Other features include pergolas, bridges, fountains, seats, street lamps and a magnificent array of sculptures. Many activities are available at the lake, including rowing and pedal boats. These woods are the preferred choice for local joggers and bicyclers. You could make a comparison to New York's Central Park. Planetario Galileo Galilei is located in the center of Bosques de Palermo. Finally Monumento a los Españoles was built in 1910 in marble and bronze and was a gift of the Spanish people to Argentina.
San Telmo - Iglesia de San Pedro Telmo/Basilica de Santo Domingo/Mercado de San Telmo
This is the birthplace of the City of Buenos Aires. The neighborhood houses the Feria de San Telmo every Sunday which is the Flea Market. Prices have gone up since our last visit 10 years ago and bargains are harder to find. Always ask for a better price on anything you are interested since bargaining is the norm. Be ready to walk away if the price isn't right - you'll be amazed at what happens.
La Boca - Birthplace of the tango/Caiminito
La Boca is the Piccola Italia and a reminder that the Italians comprise the largest European contingency in Argentina. The tango was born here in the brothels. Teatro de la Ribera, and Museo de Bellas Artes are located here. Caiminito is another pedestrian street worth a visit.
Buenos Aires legislators approved civil unions for same-sex couples Dec. 15, 2003; becoming the first jurisdiction in South America to do so.
"For us, the law is the state's recognition of our right to be a couple and will allow us to access social benefits that we were excluded from," said gay activist Marcelo Sunthein.
The measure adopted in Argentina's capital city does not include adoption rights but recognizes pension, insurance and inheritance rights of same-sex couples.
César Ciglutti, president of the Argentine Homosexual Community, said advocates have battled strong resistance from Catholic church officials to obtain commitments of support from a coalition of legislators that included socialists, centrists, Social Democrats and Peronists.
Under the proposal, couples must live together for two years before obtaining the rights granted under the law, described by socialist leader Raúl Puy as "not the same as marriage but as close as possible."
Some aspects similar to those in large cities in Western countries
Some aspects different from those in large cities in Western countries
Some differences with tourist areas in third-world countries
Social conduct
Sex market in Buenos Aires
Where to have sex (Greater safety - Lower risk)
We would like to refer you to The Gay Guide for an updated gay scene list..
This is a city with plenty of "typical" restaurants for all the regions of the country as well as with excellent international cuisine. Buenos Aires' better restaurants require appropriate dress; the Portenos themselves are very fashion conscious. Dining is usually very late. Restaurants open at 9pm and stay open as late as 2am. You would routinely make a reservation for 10:00 PM and a midnight reservation is not uncommon.
The meals I remember most were not in smart restaurants like Tomo Uno but in the large popular eateries: El Palacio de la Papa Frita, La Estancia, where hundreds of tables are filled with loud, happy diners. Where sweating, smiling, fast-moving waiters uncork bottles of Cabernet from Mendoza with a practiced flip of the wrist. Where you start dinner with an oregano-perfumed provoleta, a plate of grilled, melting provolone. Where the bife de lomo is as tender and tasty as any you'll find in fancier places whose menus are printed in French. Where the air is full of the mixed smells of a mixed grill, a parrillada. Where it's not only easy but also inevitable to strike up a conversation with people at the next table.
Newcomers like Chueca Resto-Bar, Filo, and Scetta Restaurant make the gay dining experience even more remarkable. For red wine lovers, we strongly recommend San Telmo’s Malbec easily obtained at most of these restaurants at around US$7/bottle. (We just discovered it here in Chicago and bought a case only to find it all over the place in BA for next to nothing.)
We strongly recommend you stop for coffee or tea at Alvear Palace Hotel and Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires just so you see how the other half really lives in Buenos aires.
Shopping hours are 9:00 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Monday-Friday and 9:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m. Saturday. Avenues Santa Fe and Callao as well as Florida Street are the main commercial points in downtown Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is famous for its chic boutiques with the best of New York, Paris and London. A walk down elegant, traffic-free Calle Florida gives the visitor almost every imaginable shopping experience.
Florida Street, in the heart of downtown, has a constant stream of people coming and going from several stores, fast food restaurants, international-cuisine restaurants, etc. In Santa Fe Avenue, from Junin St. to Esmeralda St. you will find lots movie theaters, galleries, stores, coffee shops, malls and good restaurants.
La Recoleta is where the old clich? about Buenos Aires being the Paris of Latin America becomes irrefutable. Shady streets lined with trees, apartment buildings that could have been designed by Baron Hauseman, exquisite little boutiques with names like Glac?e, Pistaccio, Champagne, Oggi, l?Interdit, and Sir. Ultratasteful dark green awnings. Potted fichus plants on the sidewalks outside shops. And price tags that don't bear thinking about. If anyone doubted there's still a lot of wealth in Buenos Aires after so many years of economic chaos and decline, a short walk along Callao or Quintana into the heart of La Recoleta would quickly change his mind.
Best buys in Argentina are leather goods, silver, furs and souvenirs from the Gaucho. There is an excellent outdoor market in historic San Telmo on the weekends that specializes in antiques and art.
Just south of the Plaza de Mayo is the old district of San Telmo. Whitewashed walls, low buildings, green vines poking through cracks in the plaster, mossy tiles and wrought-iron balconies, cobbled streets only partially hidden under modern asphalt.
In the middle of San Telmo is the Plaza Dorrego and its Sunday flea market. Six concentric rows of antique stands and hundreds of people circle the plaza and each other. Old silver, old watches, old brass, old china. Even old gaucho paraphernalia, cowboy gear from yesterday's Pampas: belts studded with coins, knives in ornate silver scabbards, stone-and-rawhide boleadoras to trip wild horses and ostrich like rheas. Be prepared to bargain, since along with soccer it is the argentine favorite pastime. When you're tired of shopping, amble over to the corner of the park to watch the street tango performers!
Situated in the Parque Nacional Iguaz? near Puerto Iguaz?, these spectacular falls lie just east of the confluence of the Iguaz? and Paran? rivers. At least 5000 cubic m (176,570 cu ft) of water per second plunge the 70m (230ft) into the abyss below. If they look familiar, it's because they were the supporting actors in the film The Mission; appropriately, the area has historic ruins of Jesuit missions, which also draw many visitors. San Ignacio Min?, built in a style of architecture known as 'Guaran? baroque', is especially popular. Above the falls, the waters are suitable for canoeing, kayaking and other water sports. The surrounding park is home to 55,000 hectares (135,850 acres) of pristine subtropical rainforest, with abundant wildlife and plant species.
It is possible to do a day trip to the falls. Go to the local American Express office at the Alvear Palace or Avenida Florida and request a one day round trip air fare with a guided excursion. Try to get a helicopter ride over the falls. It was the best money I ever spent and to this day I will remember the beauty of the falls. I was unable to book this from the US with any travel agent.
If summer means the beach to the inhabitants of Greater Buenos Aires, Mar del Plata is most often the beach they are thinking of. Situated on the northern Atlantic coast, 400km (228mi) from the capital, beaches in this area sprawl for 8km (5mi), with sophisticated mansions (reflecting the area's upper-class origins) mingling with the new middle-class resorts. Sea lions keep an eye on the fishing activities around the wharves, and a replica of the grotto of Lourdes is a kitsch paradise.
Only if you have a long stay in Buenos Aires and are willing to tackle driving a rental car.
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